Turntable with Ultra

Steve Woodhouse

Major Contributor
Joined
Aug 11, 2023
Messages
1,832
Before we start, I'm in no way a vinyl fan.

Recently I discovered a number of records which I own which are not available on CD or streaming services. I decided to get a record player and digitise these. I've gone for an Audio Technica LP60XUSB to do this, and I managed to pick one up used for c.£90.

Meanwhile, my son has decided to get into physical media. At the moment it's CDs - he just loves the idea of putting a disc into a player. He'll absolutely freak at vinyl.

Anyway, for purposes of digitising the music, the AT will be plugged into my PC via USB. But after that's done (I really don't have too many like this) my son and I will be very occasionally playing the odd record, so I'll be plugging it into my Ultra.

Any tips? Experiences?
 
VinylStudio is almost essential for digitising vinyl - see https://www.alpinesoft.co.uk/

It can take a little getting used to, but for removing noise, splitting and tagging tracks etc, it's great. And you'd be supporting a UK developer :)

I wouldn't anticipate many issues feeding the Ultra's phono port for adhoc listening, although you may need to apply some input pre-gain.
 
VinylStudio is almost essential for digitising vinyl - see https://www.alpinesoft.co.uk/

It can take a little getting used to, but for removing noise, splitting and tagging tracks etc, it's great. And you'd be supporting a UK developer :)

I wouldn't anticipate many issues feeding the Ultra's phono port for adhoc listening, although you may need to apply some input pre-gain.
Totally agree.
Yes you can achieve the same results for zero cost with a combination of Audacity and decent tagging software (mp3tag) but VinylStudio makes the process much more streamlined.
 
When you undertake a needledrop the parts of the process that make the most difference are a) the condition and cleanliness of your vinyl and b) the set up of your cartridge and tone arm.
 
... and b) the set up of your cartridge and tone arm.
Obviously, there's absolutely nothing to set up with the LP60XUSB: No overhang, offset, anti-skating, let alone VTA or azimuth. Not even the vertical tracking force is adjustable.

The only available upgrade path would be replacing the provided conical ATN3600LC needle with the elliptical ATN3600LE (which is currently out of stock). And I'm not even sure if it's worth it. The trustworthy old conical stylus is known to be very forgiving and warm sounding. Surprisingly, AT specifies the average life time of the ATN3600LC at 300-500 hours, but just 300 hours for the ATN3600LE. If anything, one would expect it to be the other way around, given that the VTA is the same but the contact patch is bigger with the elliptical stylus.

Any tips?
If the line input on your WiiM Ultra is not permanently taken by some other device I would try both, the Ultra's built-in phono pre-amp and the one built into the LP60XUSB and see what gives the better all-round performance. I have some trust in the Ultra's phono input when using MM cartridges, but the phono pre-amp in the record player might (or might just not, who knows?) a better match to the relatively high internal inductance of the AT pickup.
 
Obviously, there's absolutely nothing to set up with the LP60XUSB: No overhang, offset, anti-skating, let alone VTA or azimuth. Not even the vertical tracking force is adjustable.
True but since it is a secondhand deck I would take a careful look at the stylus not so much for wear but for damage - quite easy for small peoples' fingers to bend out of shape and big peoples' for that matter. I agree with you about trying both the inbuilt pre-amp and the Ultra's phono input. They should be very similar but one could easily be quite significantly different to the other.

EDIT. The ATN3600LE is available in UK but at around £30 I don't think it is worth upgrading either.
 
EDIT. The ATN3600LE is available in UK but at around £30 I don't think it is worth upgrading either.
I only checked the official AT UK website, which says "out of stock".

On a side note, the AT3600's carbon cantilever will probably rather break than bend, but just the condition of the bonded tip might be questionable with a second hand unit. Since the replacement styli are so damn cheap, it's probably a good idea to replace it, just in case, prior to digitising those LPs.
 
I tried to hook up my turntable phono stage out to the line-in on the Ultra. The sound keeps cutting out intermittently with “pause” and “play” symbols popping up on the Ultra screen. I tried increasing the gain on the phono stage with no results.
Is there a particular setting I need to change? What about the line-in input resolution?
 
I tried to hook up my turntable phono stage out to the line-in on the Ultra. The sound keeps cutting out intermittently with “pause” and “play” symbols popping up on the Ultra screen. I tried increasing the gain on the phono stage with no results.
Is there a particular setting I need to change? What about the line-in input resolution?
Try to turn the line in auto sensing off and set resolution to 24/96
 
I tried to hook up my turntable phono stage out to the line-in on the Ultra. The sound keeps cutting out intermittently with “pause” and “play” symbols popping up on the Ultra screen. I tried increasing the gain on the phono stage with no results.
Is there a particular setting I need to change? What about the line-in input resolution?
Did you connect it to the line input instead of the Phono input on the Ultra?
 
Not so much in electrical engineering, though. :P

Probably a bug in the ADC?

Actually I don't see why this is not standard or even the only sample rate used.
Agreed.

THis could have to do with WiiM's software trying to detect and circumvent digital clipping in one way or the other, but it's clearly a bug. 16 bit 44.1 kHz should be more than adequate for analogue audio from a vinyl disk and even if it wasn't, why ould that lead.to cut-outs?
 
Try to turn the line in auto sensing off and set resolution to 24/96
I tried all combinations with resolution, 24/96 or lower makes it a little less frequent (every 15-20 seconds instead of 3-4 secs) but does not eliminate the problem. I tried changing pre-gain, no luck. It seems to happen more frequently on quieter passages, not sure if it’s a coincidence.
 
I tried all combinations with resolution, 24/96 or lower makes it a little less frequent (every 15-20 seconds instead of 3-4 secs) but does not eliminate the problem. I tried changing pre-gain, no luck. It seems to happen more frequently on quieter passages, not sure if it’s a coincidence.
And what about the line in auto sensing? Do it make any difference?
 
Morning gang, I’m posting this from a beach on sunny Skiathos, 27°c. :cool: Nothing to do here except lay in the sun and drink beer, and WILF a little on my phone. Just remembered I needed to update this thread.

The turntable arrived a few days before I left, and I have it connected to my PC via USB and have ripped some vinyl using Audacity. Also, rather naughtily, I may or may not have recorded some streamed music with that software. All very good, it’s pretty easy, thought this is an instance where t’internet is a massive help.

Now, through the Ultra. A bit of a problem.

The turntable has a bypassable/switchable phono pre-amp. I tried it first with the preamp off, RCAs into the Ultra’s phono ins. Crackling. At first I thought I must have put on a record in a shocking state, but no it’s like that for any record.

Switched the turntable to using its internal preamp and switched the RCAs to line in, perfect. And I’m happy to stick with that.

But just backtracking a little. There’s nothing wrong with the turntable, preamp or interconnect, or I’d have had the crackling from the line in set up. Which suggests the issue is with the WiiM’s phono input.

Any ideas?
 
Back
Top