Wiim Ultra to S.M.S.L PO100 to Yamaha A-S301

[JeffD]

I have a relatively modest system-. Wiim with analog output to a Yamaha Wiim A-S301.

As I understand it, I'm using the DAC in the Wiim ultra, and bypassing the Yamaha A-S301 DACby connecting analog outs from the Ultra into the A-S301.

Is this a good idea? Is the Wiim DAC superior to the Yamaha amp DAC? Or, should I connect to the Yamaha via digital ouputs on the Wiim, presumably forcing the Yama to use its internals DAC?

Also, I had thought about inserting a S.M.S.L PO100 into this second scenario? Would that be worth the 70 bucks?

I honestly don't know how "jitters", which the PO100 presumably corrects via a more accurate clock, impacts my current listening, if it even does. I'm not unsatisfied with my current sound, but if this would give me a noticeable increase in sound quality, it might be worth it. I hear lots of positive things, but don't know if it is even worth it with my Wiim Ultra and Yamaha A-S301

 

[BMeek]

Your WiiM Ultra is doing a fine job as streamer / DSP/ DAC --> line out. Be happy! OTOH, its easy to go from the Ultra via Coax to the Yamaha just to see how it sounds to you. Maybe switch back and forth with presets? It may be hard to tell the difference in the sound. Especially after running RoomFit. Have you run RoomFit?

Oh. I don't see any need for the SMSL PO100 from what you've told us.

 

[JeffD]

Ok, I tried, and don't notice to much difference. I guess I was wondering if I was missing something between the DACs. The Yamaha is an older, and presumably lower tech DAC, but I thought using a PO100 in the chain, and outputting to the Yamaha DAC might significantly sound better.

 

[BMeek]

Nope. The SMSL thingy is a connectivity device - adds no value to the audio path in this case. If you wanted to also connect a PC to the Ultra via USB --> optical, I believe the SMSL PO100 would be useful.

 

[BMeek]

Ok, I tried, and don't notice to much difference. I guess I was wondering if I was missing something between the DACs. The Yamaha is an older, and presumably lower tech DAC, but I thought using a PO100 in the chain, and outputting to the Yamaha DAC might significantly sound better.

FWIW, I checked the specs on your amp and it includes a respectable TI Burr-Brown branded DAC that can handle up to 24-bit/192kHz. Yamaha also lists some spiffy features in their marketing speak that make me curious... it all comes down to how it sounds to you.

If it helps, know that your initial/current configuration is optimal using the WiiM Ultra's superior electronics and an analog path through your Yamaha. If you're driving a subwoofer then you'll want it connected directly to the Ultra and you'll want to use the Ultra as the preamp and primary system volume control (instead of the Yamha's big black knob ;-).

 

[JeffD]

Thanks for checking that and giving me confidence I have things hooked up in the proper manner. I have a par of Klipsch R-820F speakers and a R-120SW bass speaker, which I have hooked to the Ultra.

I’ve been experimenting with Roomfit today. I see a switch to turn on the bass in the Roomfit page.- does the Roomfit then do a configuration for all speakers, including bass, or is there a Roomfit sequence just for the bass? Also, am i to understanding that the Roomfit configures the tones to be “accurate”, with the assumption that the equalizer is set to flat, and the bass is set to 0 added decibels when I subsequently listen to music?

A quick listen, after Roomfit, seems to be just turning the bass lower, but I’m sure there is a nuanced difference I’m not appreciating.

 

[BMeek]

I like using RoomFit to get to as close to flat / 'studio neutral' as I can in my space, then maybe tweak 'bass/treble' preferences using EQ or just via the WiiM Home app subwoofer output gain adjustment.

Configure the subwoofer output and crossover under the Ultra's device settings and run the sub-main timing adjustment. Higher volumes don't hurt when running these measurements. You'll need to adjust your subwoofer's gain and the Yamaha-main's volume to about as loud as you're likely to listen to and tweak this - RoomFit will try to level them a bit, but you want to make it easy on RoomFit's corrections. IOW, if RoomFit tries to apply "-10db corrections" to reduce bass, turn the subwoofer's dial down a bit and run RoomFit again.

Under RoomFit settings, I've come to prefer a flat curve with the adv -> smoothing set to variable. My ears are old, so the "flat" curve doesn't sound too bright to me. B&K is more... conventional? - I like it too. After this, you may simply want to tweak the gain under the subwoofer setting to your preference, or learn to use the EQ features. I expect you'll get used to controlling the unified subwoofer & yamaha volume with the Ultra.

 

[JeffD]

Thankyou for all your helpful comments- looks like I'm all optimized! Taking some time to get the bass speaker and the Roomfit correctly configured has made a big difference!

 

[BMeek]

Thankyou for all your helpful comments- looks like I'm all optimized! Taking some time to get the bass speaker and the Roomfit correctly configured has made a big difference!

Yes!

Configuring a 2.1 stereo system's subwoofer integration properly is complicated and difficult to do manually. Having to deal with imprecise dials & phase switches, in a random room, with varying main speaker and subwoofer characteristics, etc... very tricky - particularly if you're new to thinking about, and really listening to, how such adjustments can and do impact your sound.

I was very recently wrestling with this when I searched for reasonably priced DSP home audio solutions for 2.1 systems and concluded on buying the WiiM Ultra. I'm still learning, messing with it and tweaking things - trying to understand the evolving WiiM subwoofer and RoomFit/"BassFit" functions, and how they're impacted in speaker groups with overlapping audio zones... But I'm very clear on the fact that the Ultra's DSP-enabled subwoofer configuration is WAY better than I could (or can) accomplish manually.