Power On/Off Devices without 12V Trigger

[WiiMer SJ]

My Wiim Pro is sourcing Edifier active speakers that are not equipped with 12V Trigger functionality. So I went looking for a solution, found and purchased this:

IoT Relay

Create the Internet of Things with safe, reliable power control. Universal control voltage 3.3-48VDC or 12-120VAC connects to Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or other micro. Or connect directly to a 3.3V to 48VDC or even 120VAC circuits. High voltage wiring and safety hazards are eliminated. A...

dlidirect.com

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://a.co/d/0FSd1p3

I also purchased these:

Harmony IR Adapters, Ancable 2-Pack 2.5mm Mono Plug to 3.5mm Mono Jack Connector for Logitech Harmony Hub and IR Blaster, IR Emitter Extenders, IR Repeaters, IR Receivers https://a.co/d/4c81sGu

Ancable 2-Pack 3.5mm 1/8" Monaural Mini Mono Plug to Bare Wire 6-Feet - 12V DC Trigger ON/Off Cable https://a.co/d/3vADchk

All of the above should arrive tomorrow. I will update this thread when and if it all comes together.

 

[WiiMer SJ]

For those wanting to add Trigger power on/off functionality to devices not so equipped this is a viable option.
Installation is easy. The device works as advertised and the relay has an audible and satisfying click.
I have the Pro's Standby Mode set at 30 seconds and the new feature set made available in the recent update are as promised.
Very pleased.

 

[Raphaz]

Glad I found your posting here - maybe you can help?

I want to take advantage of the Wiim’s sleep and wake-up timer functions. Unfortunately my receivers don’t have trigger in.

I looked at this exact same IoT device to make this work.

The trigger input on the relay side has clamps (it’s not 3.5 mm).
I need to understand how the trigger out is wired on the Wiim. I’m assuming it’s standard, as in the tip/center is the signal (+) and the sleeve is 0 (-)? If that’s the case I may just get a 3.5 mm to RCA cable and strip off the two RCA ends - that way I know which is minus and which is plus.
But I’m not sure if that’s correct. And I don’t have a volt meter handy to measure it.

Since you made this work for yourself, would you mind letting me know if my assumptions above are correct? Can you share a bit more how you wired it?

Appreciate it! Thank you!

 

[Raphaz]

Oh wait - you list the wires you used, with links. Duh!
That’s what happens - I got too excited to properly read your whole post.
In my case I probably only need one of the two-pack 3.5 mm to bare wires, and since red is plus, and white is minus...

Thanks again for sharing this here!

 

[WiiMer SJ]

Oh wait - you list the wires you used, with links. Duh!
That’s what happens - I got too excited to properly read your whole post.
In my case I probably only need one of the two-pack 3.5 mm to bare wires, and since red is plus, and white is minus...

Thanks again for sharing this here!

Your assumptions about the output polarity are correct but you don't need to worry about it. The clamp connector once plugged in is wired to the internal relay coil which is not polarity sensitive.

Also please note that the WiiM has a 2.5mm trigger socket, so you'll need an adapter like the one I specified.

Be careful and good hunting. Don't forget to post the results.

 

[Raphaz]

While I’m waiting for all the parts to be shipped, I have a follow-up question.

After I have this all set up, how do I switch between Wiim-timed, Wiim-controlled and regular use of the receiver(s) - like during the day when I just want to play a good old record over the same receiver, which is now plugged into the relay and depends on the Wiim to trigger it for it to power on?

Is there an always-on or a bypass switch on the relay, without the need to plug the devices into the always-on slot or another power strip every time you want to use a non-Wiim source?

 

[WiiMer SJ]

Is there an always-on or a bypass switch on the relay, without the need to plug the devices into the always-on slot or another power strip every time you want to use a non-Wiim source?

This is not a scenario I needed to consider as my setup only includes the WiiM Pro and the Edifier speakers.
There are no means on the IOT Relay to "bypass" the trigger function it provides. The simplest and safest option is "plug and play" as you suggested. Otherwise you would need to build and wire a 120vac circuit to accomplish the switching. It could be done, but I don't recommend it, and I suspect your insurance underwriter would not approve.

 

[WiiMer SJ]

Is there an always-on or a bypass switch on the relay, without the need to plug the devices into the always-on slot or another power strip every time you want to use a non-Wiim source?

In the WiiM app, under "Add Alarm" there is an option to adjust the duration or select "No Limit". "Standby Mode" also has an option for "Never". One of these, or some combination of them may get you the result you are looking for.

 

[Raphaz]

That will hopefully work. Thank you WiiMer.
If not, worst case, I just leave the Wiim in play/streaming mode in the background after I switched the receiver to another source (CD, TT, radio…).
Since I have you: are you happy with your Edifiers?

 

[WiiMer SJ]

Since I have you: are you happy with your Edifiers?

Overall yes. When I bought them they were a TV soundbar replacement. Then stored for awhile. Now they serve in a whole home/secondary listening role. Not the best option available, but for the price no complaints. As I've suggested before, do some research before you buy.

 

[milos42]

Unfortunately the power outlet is a US one and it's not available in the EU anyway.

I wrote a little hacky workaround, but it requires a home server (like a raspberry pi or anything capable of running some lines of code).
You need a tasmota smart power plug, athom sells them preflashed on the aliexpress or you can install it yourself on lot of devices).

The script polls the Wiiim's status via the upnp client and turns the power plug on/off based if there is a status change.

Prerequisite:

sudo pip install async-upnp-client

I'm running this script in a screen

#!/bin/bash

# URL and command details
URL="http://192.168.0.65:49152/description.xml"
COMMAND="/usr/local/bin/upnp-client --pprint call-action $URL AVTransport/GetInfoEx InstanceID=0"
POWER_URL="wget -O /dev/null -o /dev/null http://192.168.0.202/cm?cmnd=Power%20"
INTERVAL=5

# Initialize previous status
previous_status=""

# Function to check the status
check_status() {
    # Execute the command and capture the output
    output=$($COMMAND 2>&1)

    # Extract the CurrentTransportState value
    current_status=$(echo "$output" | grep -oP '(?<="CurrentTransportState": ")[^"]+')
    # Check if the current status is different from the previous status
    if [ "$current_status" != "$previous_status" ]; then
        # Update the previous status
        previous_status="$current_status"

        # If the current status is "PLAYING", execute the specific command
        if [ "$current_status" == "PLAYING" ]; then
        echo "Turning on the Amp"  |systemd-cat -t wiim -p info
            $(${POWER_URL}ON)
    else
            echo "Turning off the Amp"  |systemd-cat -t wiim -p info
            $(${POWER_URL}OFF)
    fi

    fi
}

# Infinite loop to run the command every 5 seconds
while true; do
    check_status
    sleep $INTERVAL
done

Run it as a service:

cat /etc/systemd/system/default.target.wants/wiim.service
[Unit]
Description=Wiim power manager
After=network.target
[Service]
ExecStart=/usr/local/bin/wiim_power_control.sh
[Install]
WantedBy=default.target


sudo systemctl daemon-reload
sudo systemctl enable wiim.service
sudo systemctl start  wiim.service

 

[donn]

A more generalized solution is using a home automation hub to read Wiims state and control a smart plug. I do this with several systems. Wiim supports many protocols and can likely be seen by most hubs: I can connect to Wiim via DNLA, Airplay, Chromecast and UPnP with Home Assistant.

 

[harkpabst]

But again, switching the Onkyo ON remains the problem.

 

[donn]

As I just posted elsewhere, home assistant will control the $25 Broadlink IR "blaster". I use this when simple power on/off is insufficent. The Broadlink with Home Assistant is learning remote the, so there is no need to know the IR code. Once this is setup anything in the hifi/TV setup controlled by remote can be controlled automatically.

Wiim has many protocols that are automatically discovered by home assistant. Home Assistant is free and will run on just about any old computer. Old laptops are ideal.

 

[GiBo61]

My Wiim Pro is sourcing Edifier active speakers that are not equipped with 12V Trigger functionality. So I went looking for a solution, found and purchased this:

IoT Relay

Create the Internet of Things with safe, reliable power control. Universal control voltage 3.3-48VDC or 12-120VAC connects to Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or other micro. Or connect directly to a 3.3V to 48VDC or even 120VAC circuits. High voltage wiring and safety hazards are eliminated. A...

dlidirect.com

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://a.co/d/0FSd1p3

I also purchased these:

Harmony IR Adapters, Ancable 2-Pack 2.5mm Mono Plug to 3.5mm Mono Jack Connector for Logitech Harmony Hub and IR Blaster, IR Emitter Extenders, IR Repeaters, IR Receivers https://a.co/d/4c81sGu

Ancable 2-Pack 3.5mm 1/8" Monaural Mini Mono Plug to Bare Wire 6-Feet - 12V DC Trigger ON/Off Cable https://a.co/d/3vADchk

All of the above should arrive tomorrow. I will update this thread when and if it all comes together.

I guess that EU users (with 220-240 Volts) something like this should also work: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/diy-...v-230v-slave-power-supply-device-p-10661.html

 

[milos42]

I guess that EU users (with 220-240 Volts) something like this should also work: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/diy-...v-230v-slave-power-supply-device-p-10661.html

I bought this, but it doesn't work with Wiim Pro properly (there are another discussion on this forum, unfortunately I found it a little late)

 

[harkpabst]

As I just posted elsewhere, home assistant will control the $25 Broadlink IR "blaster". I use this when simple power on/off is insufficent. The Broadlink with Home Assistant is learning remote the, so there is no need to know the IR code. Once this is setup anything in the hifi/TV setup controlled by remote can be controlled automatically.

Wiim has many protocols that are automatically discovered by home assistant. Home Assistant is free and will run on just about any old computer. Old laptops are ideal.

Ah, I see. Quite a complicated setup ... but mainly I had confused this thread with the one about the missing trigger input on an Onkyo amp.

 

[donn]

Ah, I see. Quite a complicated setup ... but mainly I had confused this thread with the one about the missing trigger input on an Onkyo amp.

No more complicated than setting up an RPi to run the script above. Plus using the IR blaster is a universal tool once installed. Home Assistant is often run on an RPi.

Home Assistant will also find all IP devices that can be controlled over the LAN. Devices it recognizes won't need IR control. Home Assistant recognizes and controls Wiim over the LAN connection.

 

[Raphaz]

I wanted to come back here and report: The IOT relay solution works perfect for my setup/needs. It’s been a while and some components in my system have changed, but the relay stays. Thank you WiiMer SJ!

In case someone else tries the relay in a similar setup: The issue pointed out earlier about everything powering up at once without warm-up is not an issue for me as both my receivers still use their built-in delay, even when powered up by the trigger - plus, the delay time of the two receivers happens to be even slightly different.
I have to assume that many vintage receivers of that time period will behave similar.

The only thing that is an issue for me now (and that has nothing to do with the relay) is that two of my powered remote speakers (a pair of Q Acoustics M20, connected to a WiiM Mini) go to standby by default after 20 min inactivity. Apparently a feature they added to accommodate EU regulations. This is sold in the US, where I am, but still makes sense to me. The problem is that they won’t come back on when sound is played, they won’t wake after they went into standby.
I have to power them back on manually. Not just that, but they also forget their volume settings. Since they’re out of reach on an elevated platform, and the remote is way too picky, this is super annoying!
According to the QA support that’s how they’re designed and there’s no way to shut off auto standby. No help there. And the picky sensor for the IR remote is right behind the metallic, reflective Q logo - that doesn’t help. There’s no app for these, so no possible work around that way.

I can’t think of any way to get around that problem. They seem great speakers otherwise, and from what I read so far, some other powered speakers have similar issues.

I was wondering if anyone has found a remedy for this. If so please share! Thank you!

 

[3waller]

For those wanting to add Trigger power on/off functionality to devices not so equipped this is a viable option.
Installation is easy. The device works as advertised and the relay has an audible and satisfying click.
I have the Pro's Standby Mode set at 30 seconds and the new feature set made available in the recent update are as promised.
Very pleased.

Are you using this for your pro and pro plus? I was wondering if you could gang the trigger wires together before plugging into the power bar. I have three pro plusses and i am looking for a solution where I have a single power bar that all the amps are plugged into. I don't mind if they all turn on and off when the power bar is triggered.