"re-clocking" the Ultra digital out ?

[thierryb92]

I use the Ultra + VibeLink combination (with either Pro-Ject SpeakerBox S2 or Klipsch RB-61, via a passive speaker switch).
I have used alternatively analog to analog and optical to optical link between the two WiiM devices, and never could decide what sounded best (I did run room correction routine with every change). I listen to Tidal Connect or my own flac files, direct on the WiiM Home or from roon.

Recently, I stumbled upon a video on YouTube from the Cheap Audioman, suggesting to put a 're-clocker' between both devices. I happened to have an 'SMSL PO 100 AK' unused (it is an AKM AK-4493S DAC, but also a USB to optical/coax DDC, based on the XU-316 XMOS chip) and gave it a try: to my surprise, the sound improved significantly both in clarity, punchiness AND in overall volume !

What do you think ? Does the digital signal from the Ultra really need re-clocking ? Is it something else ? I did not (yet) dare to plug the analog out from the SMSL as an AKM DAC into the analog input of the VibeLink, but who knows ...

SMSL now sells a more simple XU-316 DDC (no DAC) for €38 on Amazon, and I think it's worth a try if you want to check by yourselves.

T

 

[pieterv1]

I use the Ultra + VibeLink combination (with either Pro-Ject SpeakerBox S2 or Klipsch RB-61, via a passive speaker switch).
I have used alternatively analog to analog and optical to optical link between the two WiiM devices, and never could decide what sounded best (I did run room correction routine with every change). I listen to Tidal Connect or my own flac files, direct on the WiiM Home or from roon.

Recently, I stumbled upon a video on YouTube from the Cheap Audioman, suggesting to put a 're-clocker' between both devices. I happened to have an 'SMSL PO 100 AK' unused (it is an AKM AK-4493S DAC, but also a USB to optical/coax DDC, based on the XU-316 XMOS chip) and gave it a try: to my surprise, the sound improved significantly both in clarity, punchiness AND in overall volume !

What do you think ? Does the digital signal from the Ultra really need re-clocking ? Is it something else ? I did not (yet) dare to plug the analog out from the SMSL as an AKM DAC into the analog input of the VibeLink, but who knows ...

SMSL now sells a more simple XU-316 DDC (no DAC) for €38 on Amazon, and I think it's worth a try if you want to check by yourselves.

T

His video has been addressed on these forums many times and the general consensus seems to be that the Ultra doesn't need any re-clocking.
I tend to agree with these opinions as well. I find it hard to believe how adding an additional box and an additional conversion step could result in a more stable clock.

 

[Ronnie D]

Never trust a man with a beard selling cheap razor blades

 

[thierryb92]

Never trust a man with a beard selling cheap razor blades

Well that's the point: I did not trust him, that's why I had to try it before admitting he was right. As I said, I was not a believer initially. It just works for me (beyond a mere impression). By the way, he is also selling coffee now ... probably a joint venture with Darko on its way !

I do not want to argue on this (looks like others did already), just wanted to share my own experience and check if it would resonate with others.
By the way, I did not hear a 'more stable clock', I heard better sounding music.

T

 

[Ronnie D]

I do not want to argue on this

I don't want to argue with you either. If you get a different/ better sound then I am honestly pleased for you.

 

[MonoMariop]

I use the Ultra + VibeLink combination (with either Pro-Ject SpeakerBox S2 or Klipsch RB-61, via a passive speaker switch).
I have used alternatively analog to analog and optical to optical link between the two WiiM devices, and never could decide what sounded best (I did run room correction routine with every change). I listen to Tidal Connect or my own flac files, direct on the WiiM Home or from roon.

Recently, I stumbled upon a video on YouTube from the Cheap Audioman, suggesting to put a 're-clocker' between both devices. I happened to have an 'SMSL PO 100 AK' unused (it is an AKM AK-4493S DAC, but also a USB to optical/coax DDC, based on the XU-316 XMOS chip) and gave it a try: to my surprise, the sound improved significantly both in clarity, punchiness AND in overall volume !

What do you think ? Does the digital signal from the Ultra really need re-clocking ? Is it something else ? I did not (yet) dare to plug the analog out from the SMSL as an AKM DAC into the analog input of the VibeLink, but who knows ...

SMSL now sells a more simple XU-316 DDC (no DAC) for €38 on Amazon, and I think it's worth a try if you want to check by yourselves.

T

Complete nonsense..Dont waste your money..that is useless
Do yourself a favor and stay FAR away from Cheapaudio dufus. He has a severe lack of knowledge of the things he talks about like he was an expert. He is a snakeoil believer with an agenda to promote whatever is the product in his rotation at that time.
waste of bandwidth...

 

[Bozzz]

I use the Ultra + VibeLink combination (with either Pro-Ject SpeakerBox S2 or Klipsch RB-61, via a passive speaker switch).
I have used alternatively analog to analog and optical to optical link between the two WiiM devices, and never could decide what sounded best (I did run room correction routine with every change). I listen to Tidal Connect or my own flac files, direct on the WiiM Home or from roon.

Recently, I stumbled upon a video on YouTube from the Cheap Audioman, suggesting to put a 're-clocker' between both devices. I happened to have an 'SMSL PO 100 AK' unused (it is an AKM AK-4493S DAC, but also a USB to optical/coax DDC, based on the XU-316 XMOS chip) and gave it a try: to my surprise, the sound improved significantly both in clarity, punchiness AND in overall volume !

What do you think ? Does the digital signal from the Ultra really need re-clocking ? Is it something else ? I did not (yet) dare to plug the analog out from the SMSL as an AKM DAC into the analog input of the VibeLink, but who knows ...

SMSL now sells a more simple XU-316 DDC (no DAC) for €38 on Amazon, and I think it's worth a try if you want to check by yourselves.

T

About all it’ll do is empty your bank account a little

 

[thierryb92]

I did not spend any money here. I just tried something that Cheap Audioman suggested and I was surprised that It worked for me.

This is in no way a post to support him, or to bash him. It did not take me that long to figure out he is no technical expert (neither am I) but he was instrumental in leading me towards WiiM as a brand with excellent sound quality/price ratio and superb software features and support. But subjective opinion on the guy is not the topic here.

If, as a WiiM user, you have actual experience with the very setup he suggested there, I would gladly exchange on it. Peace.

 

[MonoMariop]

I did not spend any money here. I just tried something that Cheap Audioman suggested and I was surprised that It worked for me.

This is in no way a post to support him, or to bash him. It did not take me that long to figure out he is no technical expert (neither am I) but he was instrumental in leading me towards WiiM as a brand with excellent sound quality/price ratio and superb software features and support. But subjective opinion on the guy is not the topic here.

If, as a WiiM user, you have actual experience with the very setup he suggested there, I would gladly exchange on it. Peace.

the problem is it does NOT work, you just think it does. Some of us are trying to clean up this industry from snakeoil and nonsense.

 

[adias]

I did not spend any money here. I just tried something that Cheap Audioman suggested and I was surprised that It worked for me.

This is in no way a post to support him, or to bash him. It did not take me that long to figure out he is no technical expert (neither am I) but he was instrumental in leading me towards WiiM as a brand with excellent sound quality/price ratio and superb software features and support. But subjective opinion on the guy is not the topic here.

If, as a WiiM user, you have actual experience with the very setup he suggested there, I would gladly exchange on it. Peace.

Ignore criticism. Try it. Sounds better to you, keep it. It’s all that matters.

Against the naysayers… can a high quality DDC clean up a digital stream? Of course. Will it achieve that in all cases? Of course not.

 

[thierryb92]

the problem is it does NOT work, you just think it does. Some of us are trying to clean up this industry from snakeoil and nonsense.

Please do not think you know what I think. I reported in all honesty (and, I think, enough precautions) what I experienced. Facts, opinions, beliefs are all different animals.

I posted here as it is a user’s forum, wishing to exchange experience and get first hand communication from the brand on occasions, not (or so I thought) a religious discussion place. My bad.

 

[adias]

Please do not think you know what I think. I reported in all honesty (and, I think, enough precautions) what I experienced. Facts, opinions, beliefs are all different animals.

I posted here as it is a user’s forum, wishing to exchange experience and get first hand communication from the brand on occasions, not (or so I thought) a religious discussion place. My bad.

Keep posting. Ignore nonsense.

 

[thierryb92]

Keep posting. Ignore nonsense.

Thanks, I think I will now listen to Pink Floyd’s ´Have a cigar’ at 90 db then get cool again

 

[alexcaire]

I use the Ultra + VibeLink combination (with either Pro-Ject SpeakerBox S2 or Klipsch RB-61, via a passive speaker switch).
I have used alternatively analog to analog and optical to optical link between the two WiiM devices, and never could decide what sounded best (I did run room correction routine with every change). I listen to Tidal Connect or my own flac files, direct on the WiiM Home or from roon.

Recently, I stumbled upon a video on YouTube from the Cheap Audioman, suggesting to put a 're-clocker' between both devices. I happened to have an 'SMSL PO 100 AK' unused (it is an AKM AK-4493S DAC, but also a USB to optical/coax DDC, based on the XU-316 XMOS chip) and gave it a try: to my surprise, the sound improved significantly both in clarity, punchiness AND in overall volume !

What do you think ? Does the digital signal from the Ultra really need re-clocking ? Is it something else ? I did not (yet) dare to plug the analog out from the SMSL as an AKM DAC into the analog input of the VibeLink, but who knows ...

SMSL now sells a more simple XU-316 DDC (no DAC) for €38 on Amazon, and I think it's worth a try if you want to check by yourselves.

T

Please try the analog output on the SMSL, and share the results, I wonder if the AK DAC would sound different in your set up

 

[Pragmatist]

the problem is it does NOT work, you just think it does. Some of us are trying to clean up this industry from snakeoil and nonsense.

And I bet you will not succeed. Having fun is the clue, not saving money. And your attitude is not helpful at all. Grow up. Maybe become StereoMariop.

 

[dangermouse]

And I bet you will not succeed. Having fun is the clue, not saving money. And your attitude is not helpful at all. Grow up. Maybe become StereoMariop.

Precisely.

It's your money. Spend it. Have fun...but please don't try and persuade anyone new to the hobby, and with less money to play with, that this sort of snake oil is necessary for their enjoyment of either sound or music.

 

[Pragmatist]

Precisely.

It's your money. Spend it. Have fun...but please don't try and persuade anyone new to the hobby, and with less money to play with, that this sort of snake oil is necessary for their enjoyment of either sound or music.

But I've noticed that as a one-way street. The all-knowings are allowed to blame "the others", we, the "foolish", are not.
Anyway, work hard, earn money, spend it the way you like.

 

[harkpabst]

... the sound improved significantly ... AND in overall volume !

What do you call an improvement in volume?

 

[thierryb92]

What do you call an improvement in volume?

Simply put: a highel level of volume with the knob at the same position. I did not measure with a dBmeter. As said, this is subjective.
T

 

[tabata]

The volume comment is the dead giveaway of confirmation bias.

Step 1) You were told there would be an improvement by a YouTuber.

Step 2) You tried it to see for yourself but ran a faulty, heavily biased experiment. It was sighted (as in, not a blind test) and you didn’t volume level match.

Step 3) You think you landed on something, but you didn’t.

Step 4) In explaining it, you give away the bias by saying the volume “improved” when there is no such thing.

If spending money and telling yourself you improved the sound “significantly” (your words) then knock yourself out but people who want to keep high quality audio cheap and simple would be smart to ignore this nonsense.