Strange loss of input source when I use bluetooth headset with my phone (headset is not paired with Amp Ultra)

[DoubleTap]

I just got a Wiim Amp Ultra to replace my Wiim Ultra + external amp
Running LS50 Metas, SVS Micron 3000, USB Out to Monolith Headphone Amp
Only input right now is the ARC from my PC monitor, a USB thumbdrive and Amazon Music streaming

I have 3 preset setup:
1 - turns on speakers and sub and room correction
2 - output to USB (headphone amp), sub off, EQ = flat
3 - source set to HDMI ARC

I've been having an issue where I lose about 90% of volume - happens in speakers and USB Headphone settings.
I think the input has been switched and the faint volume I can hear is just internal cross talk / signal bleed

The first time this happened, I had to reboot the amp.
Then it happened again and while the preset button 3 would not set the input back to HDMI/ARC, using the Wiim app to manually set the input to HDMI/ARC would correct the issue.

Then, later, I used my bluetooth headset - which is not paired with my Wiim Amp Ultra (and has never been paired with anything but my phone)
When I pushed the play button on the headset, it somehow caused the internal input change / volume drop.
I manually set the input and the volume was restored.
I tried this a few times and it was repeatable.

The only think I can think of - it could be that Amazon music was the active app on my (Samsung) phone instead of youtube (I was trying to listen to a video) and when I hit the play button, the Amazon music app tried to play and did something to the input setting on the Wiim Amp Ultra

However, Amazon music did not play from my bluetooth headset and did not play on the Wiim Amp Ultra

My best guess is that Amazon music had been streaming to the Amp but I had set the input to HDMI/ARC (which is my PC sound) and when Amazon music played, it tried to activate the WiFi input but was not fully successful only managed some in-between mode.

 

[Wiimer]

I have 3 preset setup:
1 - turns on speakers and sub and room correction
2 - output to USB (headphone amp), sub off, EQ = flat
3 - source set to HDMI ARC

The inputs are not specified in presets 1 and 2, are they? In that case, if you press Preset 3 and then Preset 1 or 2, the input will not switch.

If each preset does not work as expected, check the settings again.

The first time this happened, I had to reboot the amp.
Then it happened again and while the preset button 3 would not set the input back to HDMI/ARC, using the Wiim app to manually set the input to HDMI/ARC would correct the issue.

Pressing the Manage button in the input select on the browse screen and hiding unwanted input makes it easier to switch between inputs remotely.

Then, later, I used my bluetooth headset - which is not paired with my Wiim Amp Ultra (and has never been paired with anything but my phone)
When I pushed the play button on the headset, it somehow caused the internal input change / volume drop.

Did the WiiM input switch when the headset connected to the phone was switched on? Which input did it switch to?

Maybe it was because you were using AlexaCast, but I honestly don't know. Could you describe the situation more specifically?


Sorry, but I don't think I understand your problem yet.

 

[DoubleTap]

I may have narrowed down the issue.

When I use the mic button on the remote to access Alexa - which I did today: "Alexa... set a 20 minute timer"

After the timer went off, I used the mic button on the remote to say "Alexa... stop" (otherwise, the alarm just keeps going)

After this, I was unable to play the HDMI/ARC source out of either speakers or the USB headphone amp.

I tried my remote presets, accessing the presets from the wiim app, I tried the touch screen and adjusting the inputs directly from the app (like switching to line in or optical, then back to HDMI/ARC)

I tried over a dozen times to switch inputs and outputs to get the sound back.

Nothing worked until I rebooted the Wiim Amp Ultra.

We used to use various Amazon devices for mundane tasks like this - mostly cooking timers and things like that but we removed the discrete Amazon devices when they changed their privacy policies recently.

So I figured that since this only works when you activate the mic, the privacy issues are minimal, but it does seem to cause some kind of unrecoverable state in the Wiim device.

Edit:

I just tried it again - if I ask Alexa a question and she answered, there is no issue and the system functions normally.

However, if I set a timer and the alarm goes off, that seems to be the event that basically locks up the ability to output sound.

 

[Wiimer]

I may have narrowed down the issue.

When I use the mic button on the remote to access Alexa - which I did today: "Alexa... set a 20 minute timer"

After the timer went off, I used the mic button on the remote to say "Alexa... stop" (otherwise, the alarm just keeps going)

After this, I was unable to play the HDMI/ARC source out of either speakers or the USB headphone amp.

I tried my remote presets, accessing the presets from the wiim app, I tried the touch screen and adjusting the inputs directly from the app (like switching to line in or optical, then back to HDMI/ARC)

I tried over a dozen times to switch inputs and outputs to get the sound back.

Nothing worked until I rebooted the Wiim Amp Ultra.

We used to use various Amazon devices for mundane tasks like this - mostly cooking timers and things like that but we removed the discrete Amazon devices when they changed their privacy policies recently.

So I figured that since this only works when you activate the mic, the privacy issues are minimal, but it does seem to cause some kind of unrecoverable state in the Wiim device.

Edit:

I just tried it again - if I ask Alexa a question and she answered, there is no issue and the system functions normally.

However, if I set a timer and the alarm goes off, that seems to be the event that basically locks up the ability to output sound.

After stopping the timer with the mic button on the remote, press the mic button again and say 'Switch to HDMI'. The audio from the TV should come back after a few seconds.

If this doesn't work properly, check that 'Auto-sensing to HDMI' is enabled in the audio input settings in the WiiM app. Also check that the TV's ARC/CEC settings are properly configured.

 

[harkpabst]

This is some really strange case and I don't have a good explanation yet, so just a couple of remarks and questions.

I've been having an issue where I lose about 90% of volume - happens in speakers and USB Headphone settings.
I think the input has been switched and the faint volume I can hear is just internal cross talk / signal bleed

I doubt that this is a thinkable reason. Cross talk between sources should be close to zero with theses devices. Even with the volume set fully up you shouldn't hear an adjecant source playing.

Then, later, I used my bluetooth headset - which is not paired with my Wiim Amp Ultra (and has never been paired with anything but my phone)
When I pushed the play button on the headset, it somehow caused the internal input change / volume drop.
I manually set the input and the volume was restored.
I tried this a few times and it was repeatable.

If the headset is not connected to the WiiM Amp Ultra in any way the only way a button press on this headset could change the way the amp is working could be through it's app somehow "talking" to the WiiM Home app.

Are there any settings regarding third party app? What is shown on the touchscreen display when you repeat these steps? And finally, what does the play button actually intend to do and which action does it actually perform on your phone?

After this, I was unable to play the HDMI/ARC source out of either speakers or the USB headphone amp.

Does "unable" mean 90% reduction in volume in this case or really no sound at all?

Again, is there anything shown on the touchscreen display? The WiiM Amp Ultra has (at least) two different mechanisms that both result in no music playing:
One is the physical mute button on the WiiM Voice Remote 2 (now on the left above the preset buttons). This will really just fully cut the volume.
The other is the play/pause button in the top center of the remote (and in the center of the volume knob on the device). I wonder if Alexa might trigger this state ...

 

[Erebus]

app on my (Samsung) phone

Probably totally unrelated, but would it have anything to do with the newish Lock Screen controls in the WiiM Home App?

 

[DoubleTap]

Probably totally unrelated, but would it have anything to do with the newish Lock Screen controls in the WiiM Home App?

I don't think so - I don't use that.

After stopping the timer with the mic button on the remote, press the mic button again and say 'Switch to HDMI'. The audio from the TV should come back after a few seconds.

If this doesn't work properly, check that 'Auto-sensing to HDMI' is enabled in the audio input settings in the WiiM app. Also check that the TV's ARC/CEC settings are properly configured.

I have auto sensing turned off as it seems to cause issues (not certain)

However - telling Alexa "Alexa... switch to HDMI" did work and reactivated that input when nothing else would do that.

 

[hgo58]

I don't think so - I don't use that.

Did you do it disable it then?
Check the WiiM Home App "App Preferences".

It may interfere!

 

[Wiimer]

However - telling Alexa "Alexa... switch to HDMI" did work and reactivated that input when nothing else would do that.

It may be a bug that stopping the timer causes no HDMI audio output. Please submit a ticket via feedback section of the WiiM app immediately after reproducing the issue. A device log will be sent them.

Btw, you can leave out 'Alexa' when talking to the remote's microphone