Using high Q shelving to gain 10 Hz in the bass without severe drawbacks

I wholeheartedly disagree to most of these statements.

The article by Perry Marshall describes an alternative approach to designing ported speakers, it's not a cookbook for "improving" existing designs. While certain aspects surely apply in common, the pros and cons must be evaluated.

I don't share your comments on subwoofer usage at all. From theory and even more from practical experience one single subwoofer (even a very cheap one) can greatly improve real world performance in a typical home, if high pass filtering is applied to the mains. @Valdo already owns a WiiM Amp that is capable of this exercise, so a sub is all that is needed.
You have to have the right order of crossover slope both LP and HP to have proper integration, in the acoustical domain . I dont agree on the one subwoofer religion , you really need two to have good sound .
 
In my opinion, this is a judgement call to balance between quantity (more bass) and quality (low distortion). So, it depends on your preference, budget, space, and other factors. If space allows, I would go with subwoofer and proper crossover between subwoofer and main speakers.
The article by Perry might be worth a try, especially because its for free to try it .
 
You have to have the right order of crossover slope both LP and HP to have proper integration, in the acoustical domain . I dont agree on the one subwoofer religion , you really need two to have good sound .
Who said something religious about using one subwoofer? Did I ever say that one sub is better than two?

Using the built-in high and low pass of the WiiM amp will result in matching acoustical slopes if you choose a high enough crossover frequency and do not fall for the pseudo experts talking rubbish about matching the sub to the "natural high pass slope" of the mains.

Asking out of curiosity, would you run two subs in mono or stereo?
 
The article by Perry might be worth a try, especially because its for free to try it .
Better one is to get a pair of active speakers with bass / treble boost functions if considering buying new ones.
 
Better one is to get a pair of active speakers with bass / treble boost functions if considering buying new ones
Passive ported speakers will benefit the most from Perry Marshalls trick because they dont have the nessessary high pass filter below fb.
 
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Today, I got a foot switch to toggle active subwoofer and make main active speakers full range. What a difference between on and off. I hardly hear bass and kick drum with off. I am not going back to 2.0 configuration.
 
Today, I got a foot switch to toggle active subwoofer and make main active speakers full range. What a difference between on and off. I hardly hear bass and kick drum with off. I am not going back to 2.0 configuration.
What kind of setup is that?
 
What kind of setup is that?
Some powered subwoofers have a TR jack on the back panel. With a latch switch (typically on / off footswitch), they can bypass subwoofer and high-pass filter to main speakers. I use Kali WS6.2 and Fender 1-button on/off footswitch. So, I can easily switch between 2.1 and 2.0 setup.
 
One can play with the Q value. Setting the shelving at 27 Hz , -12 dB with a smaller Q= 1.5 will give a small boost at 34 Hz with my speakers , about 2 dB. At 27 Hz the negative overshoot ( -14 dB ) will give good protection for my Markaudio drivers.
 
One can play with the Q value. Setting the shelving at 27 Hz , -12 dB with a smaller Q= 1.5 will give a small boost at 34 Hz with my speakers , about 2 dB. At 27 Hz the negative overshoot ( -14 dB ) will give good protection for my Markaudio drivers.
Which MA drivers are you using and in which cabinet?
 
Let’s say I have the opposite ”problem” too much base due to twin ported drivers on each speaker?
Currently I cut the output to my speakers at 40Hz using sub out in wiim, I hate boomy base!
 

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... too much base due to twin ported drivers on each speaker ...
The number of ports says absolutely nothing about the boominess (or lack of) of the bass response.

The technique presented here is not intended to correct for too little bass output (quantity). It is meant to extend the frequency response to lower frequencies.

Consequently, shelving filters are not really an appropriate way of reducing peaks. This is primarily what peaking filters are for. While a low shelf filter could work, matching the steepness of the LF peaks would be difficult, because the required high Q would lead to an unwanted peak in the response.

Best to stick with regular peak filters.
 
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So far I did not.

But that was with my previous speakers that did benefit a lot from a high crossover frequency (not advisable with mono sub(s)).

I might try it both ways with my new Radiant Acoustics Clarity 6.2 and a low crossover frequency.

In practice, the sub bass content of recoded real music is monophonic, anyway.
 
So far I did not.

But that was with my previous speakers that did benefit a lot from a high crossover frequency (not advisable with mono sub(s)).

I might try it both ways with my new Radiant Acoustics Clarity 6.2 and a low crossover frequency.

In practice, the sub bass content of recoded real music is monophonic, anyway.
even a low note of an instrument has its harmonic charge...
 
even a low note of an instrument has its harmonic charge...
Yes, and harmonics are multiples of the fundamental.

Is that an argument for mono subs? Or for stereo subs? Or does it matter at all? If the harmonics are localisable, does that mean the fundamental is as well? If fundamental and harmonics had to be reproduced by the same driver we would all be listening to full range speakers. ;)
 
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