Wiim Amp with Polk XT15 & Polk PSW10

100Hz and 3db added to the max gain in RC
Looking very good!

Now I suggest to manually modify EQ filter #10 on both left and right channel with the following settings:

Type: HS (high-shelf)
Frequency: 8000 Hz
Gain: -3dB
Q: 0.7

That should decrease the XT15 brightness and bring you to a flattish response.

Looking forward to hearing your listening impressions!
 
100Hz and 3db added to the max gain in RC
Looking at these filters I'm thinking you *might* be able to squeeze out a slightly smoother bass response by updating just the following RC settings:

Freq: 30-200Hz
Max Gain: 6 dB

The idea is that with these settings RC should avoid stacking of multiple positive gain filters (like you currently have at 38Hz) and give better focus on the problem area; possibly even reducing the depth of the problematic dip as a side-effect.

Then we'd need to see again if any of the resulting filter bands could be safely repurposed for the high-shelf filter to counteract the XT15 rising treble.

Another thing you could try to do about the dip is move the sub around a bit to see if there's any position in your room where the it goes away. I'd only look at sub positions close to a wall.

Anyway, not a critical thing either way - just something you could do if you wanted to try and see how far you can get.
What you have achieved so far should sound great so these would probably result in only minor changes in the sound.

The only real problem now is if you still get the distorted rumble from the sub at some frequency. That is something that would be worth looking into more as it seems like it could be audible with music as well.
 
Looking at these filters I'm thinking you *might* be able to squeeze out a slightly smoother bass response by updating just the following RC settings:

Freq: 30-200Hz
Max Gain: 6 dB

The idea is that with these settings RC should avoid stacking of multiple positive gain filters (like you currently have at 38Hz) and give better focus on the problem area; possibly even reducing the depth of the problematic dip as a side-effect.

Then we'd need to see again if any of the resulting filter bands could be safely repurposed for the high-shelf filter to counteract the XT15 rising treble.

Another thing you could try to do about the dip is move the sub around a bit to see if there's any position in your room where the it goes away. I'd only look at sub positions close to a wall.

Anyway, not a critical thing either way - just something you could do if you wanted to try and see how far you can get.
What you have achieved so far should sound great so these would probably result in only minor changes in the sound.

The only real problem now is if you still get the distorted rumble from the sub at some frequency. That is something that would be worth looking into more as it seems like it could be audible with music as well.
The rumble isn't present in any music, luckily, so to the ear it sounds like plain ol'low bass

Regarding the 30-200Hz, and the Max Gain, I'm guessing this is in the RC that we're referring to before starting the RC test?
Any reason why we pre-set it to 400Hz as default?

Side query, when running the RC, should the amp volume be high (50-100%) or whatever you prefer?
 
Looking at these filters I'm thinking you *might* be able to squeeze out a slightly smoother bass response by updating just the following RC settings:

Freq: 30-200Hz
Max Gain: 6 dB

The idea is that with these settings RC should avoid stacking of multiple positive gain filters (like you currently have at 38Hz) and give better focus on the problem area; possibly even reducing the depth of the problematic dip as a side-effect.

Then we'd need to see again if any of the resulting filter bands could be safely repurposed for the high-shelf filter to counteract the XT15 rising treble.

Another thing you could try to do about the dip is move the sub around a bit to see if there's any position in your room where the it goes away. I'd only look at sub positions close to a wall.

Anyway, not a critical thing either way - just something you could do if you wanted to try and see how far you can get.
What you have achieved so far should sound great so these would probably result in only minor changes in the sound.

The only real problem now is if you still get the distorted rumble from the sub at some frequency. That is something that would be worth looking into more as it seems like it could be audible with music as well.
Here we go cap :D
 

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The rumble isn't present in any music, luckily, so to the ear it sounds like plain ol'low bass
Great!
Though note that the rumble is likely there with music too, it's probably just masked behind other sounds in the mix most of the time.
Regarding the 30-200Hz, and the Max Gain, I'm guessing this is in the RC that we're referring to before starting the RC test?
Exactly, this screen:
1000060154.jpg
Any reason why we pre-set it to 400Hz as default?
When we started I didn't know your exact room response, but I knew that any resonances/peaks in smallish rooms will be below 400Hz.

Now after all these tests I have a better understanding of your environment and can see that all of the peaks are consistently below 200Hz in both channels.

I was hoping that limiting correction to that reduced range would ensure that the 10 bands of PEQ per channel are more efficiently utilized within the actual problem areas.

Similarly, bumping Max Gain further to 6dB was meant to ensure that the algorithm doesn't try use multiple PEQ bands to boost the response at a single frequency (which it was doing by using 2x +3dB boost at 38Hz in each channel). That was also inefficient.

So I was mainly trying to work around some current limitations of the WiiM RC implementation. I hope WiiM RC will further improve with time and that these limitations will be removed.

Here we go cap :D
However looking at the measurements you just posted I see that the RC algorithm again made some inefficient choices, unfortunately - the result seems slightly worse than before to me.

BTW, did you move the sub in the meantime, by any chance?

TBH this is why I personally still rely on manually calculated correction from REW instead of WiiM automated RC; I find it easier and faster to optimize the correction in REW, and I have more control. I then just type the EQ config created in REW into WiiM EQ manually.

Anyway, I think the previous RC attempt (post #59) plus the manual high-shelf (post #62) was the best iteration, so I'd personally just go back to that.

Hope you're happy with how it sounds!
 
This morning, decided to do one quick RC test and amend the range and max gain to where we saw the best results
Max Gain: 3.5db
Min Gain: 10db
Freq: 35-350Hz
Crossover: 100Hz and 0db gain
The rest were left, and the volume at 60%

IMG_0299.png
 
This morning, decided to do one quick RC test and amend the range and max gain to where we saw the best results
Max Gain: 3.5db
Min Gain: 10db
Freq: 35-350Hz
Crossover: 100Hz and 0db gain
The rest were left, and the volume at 60%

View attachment 20112
That looks pretty good! Any listening impressions so far? :)

Did you also try manually adding the proposed high-shelf filter to counteract the Polk XT15 rising treble?
 
That looks pretty good! Any listening impressions so far? :)

Did you also try manually adding the proposed high-shelf filter to counteract the Polk XT15 rising treble?
So far decent and thumping lows

No, not yet, I need to read up what I can do regarding the rising treble - In regards to manually adding

Luckily, I dont see stacking like we did before
 

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Looking very good!

Now I suggest to manually modify EQ filter #10 on both left and right channel with the following settings:

Type: HS (high-shelf)
Frequency: 8000 Hz
Gain: -3dB
Q: 0.7

That should decrease the XT15 brightness and bring you to a flattish response.

Looking forward to hearing your listening impressions!
Aha found it :D
 
That’s it, yes!
You can save the updated EQ profile under a different name so that you can switch easily and compare.
Note that you can now also fine-tune the amount of treble by modifying just the gain of this high-shelf filter on both channels.
The setting I proposed (-3dB) should result in reasonably neutral tuning, but you may prefer slightly less or slightly more treble than that.
Enjoy!
 
That’s it, yes!
You can save the updated EQ profile under a different name so that you can switch easily and compare.
Note that you can now also fine-tune the amount of treble by modifying just the gain of this high-shelf filter on both channels.
The setting I proposed (-3dB) should result in reasonably neutral tuning, but you may prefer slightly less or slightly more treble than that.
Enjoy!
That’s awesome
Thanks for the help bud

I already bumped it to -1.5db, sounded better and not to sharp
 
Max gain 3.5db
Min gain -10db
Frequency range 20-1000Hz (will fix the 8000hz with the suggestion above from Dominikz, shelving the #10)

Bought a 4m cable for the sub and kept moving it around the room, eventually the best was below my desk, BUT, turning the sub was the trick here see photo attached
image.jpg
 
Now we’re cooking with gas!! Sub is thumping, drum symbols are present, the artist voice is quite clear, guitar strumming is beautiful

Summary, placement placement placement

Had the sub in 4-5 new spots, back to it’s original placement but turned 90 degrees did the trick to fix that extreme dip
 
@dominikz :) :D I think I did a thing!!
You did a very good thing indeed! :giggle: 💪 Great job!
Bought a 4m cable for the sub and kept moving it around the room, eventually the best was below my desk, BUT, turning the sub was the trick here see photo attached
Had the sub in 4-5 new spots, back to it’s original placement but turned 90 degrees did the trick to fix that extreme dip
Perfect! Moving the sub around is well worth it, usually it is possible to find a spot that works better than others. It is icing on the cake if that spot turns out to be this convenient. :)

BTW, by turning the sub 90° you moved the driver closer to the back wall, and a bit further away from the left wall. This changed the SBIR frequencies (I explained the theory recently in this post) and in your case removed the most severe null. I also have my sub rotated 90° in my desktop system for the same reasons.

The best way to learn these effects is to experiment as you did, kudos for taking the time to do it!

Min gain -10db
I'd personally set Min Gain to -12 dB because a couple of the filters obviously need more negative gain (e.g. at 66 Hz in one channel and 64Hz in the other).
Frequency range 20-1000Hz
I'd personally set the lower bound to 30Hz since your sub doesn't have much output below it. Boosting below 30Hz is IMHO just wasting headroom and might result in increased distortion.
You can keep the upper bound at 1kHz if you like, but the problem areas in your room seem to all be below 300Hz.

Now we’re cooking with gas!! Sub is thumping, drum symbols are present, the artist voice is quite clear, guitar strumming is beautiful
Really happy to hear this! 🤟

Summary, placement placement placement
Absolutely, placement is the first this to sort out - that way you also maximize the potential with RC/EQ that you run later.

All in all, great work!
 
BTW, by turning the sub 90° you moved the driver closer to the back wall, and a bit further away from the left wall. This changed the SBIR frequencies (I explained the theory recently in this post) and in your case removed the most severe null. I also have my sub rotated 90° in my desktop system for the same reasons.
A benefit of forward firing subwoofers 😃
 
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