12V Trigger high/low button in app

[jhaider]

Simple idea in concept: a 12V trigger high/low button that keeps the trigger in the high state regardless of playback through the Wiim. This could be used for room correction calibration, or using the Wiim to turn on downstream gear for use with other source components.

Ideally the high state would still have a timer, but a fairly long one - 4 hours sounds like a sweet spot to me - before reverting to low state.

 

[mako]

Hi, bump to the custom delay for the 12v trigger to go off. Default 2.5 minutes is not enough!

My suggestion is to have it settable in minutes, from 1 minutes to 1440 minutes.

Is this technically possible?

 

[PeterMann]

I think this feature needs a whole screen of options and readouts to get it working sensibly. I agree the custom turn off timeout would be great, but you also need to see what state the Wiim thinks the trigger is in and be able to manually toggle it to do any kind of troubleshooting.

 

[JVN01]

The simple (obvious) solution is to have binary ON/OFF status for the Wiim. Then add a button to the app to toggle between the two. 12V trigger out just needs to follow that status. Any auto on/off status change (detect spdif signal, no-signal timeout etc) can be layered on top of that, but keep the ON/OFF status a simple binary option and everything becomes very straightforward.

At the same time, ditch the useless "preset" functionality of the front panel soft buttons, and make one of them the power toggle button. Then you can actually turn the Wiim on and off without needing to open the app, and you have a great product.

It's how Yamaha do it on the WXC-50, and it's seamless and intuitive and requires zero thought.

 

[Brantome]

The simple (obvious) solution is to have binary ON/OFF status for the Wiim. Then add a button to the app to toggle between the two. 12V trigger out just needs to follow that status. Any auto on/off status change (detect spdif signal, no-signal timeout etc) can be layered on top of that, but keep the ON/OFF status a simple binary option and everything becomes very straightforward.

At the same time, ditch the useless "preset" functionality of the front panel soft buttons, and make one of them the power toggle button. Then you can actually turn the Wiim on and off without needing to open the app, and you have a great product.

It's how Yamaha do it on the WXC-50, and it's seamless and intuitive and requires zero thought.

Try raising a feature request ticket thru the feedback section in the app and see if it elicits a direct response from WiiM - might have a better chance of a response there than in amongst a myriad of posts here.

 

[JVN01]

Try raising a feature request ticket thru the feedback section in the app and see if it elicits a direct response from WiiM - might have a better chance of a response there than in amongst a myriad of posts here.

True, although I've tried raising tickets to no avail. I'm happy to continue trying posting on the forums as I'm interested to gauge what other Wiim users are thinking in the hope that if there's consensus then Wiim may take on board those opinions and either improve/fix the current product via firmware upgrades, or release new/better products which work how people really want..

 

[Voltron]

I just found this after posting for here for a similar feature. Also I've submitted the feedback via the app. I really hope they can help! My wife is ready to toss the whole system because of this.

 

[SD2KING]

I just found this after posting for here for a similar feature. Also I've submitted the feedback via the app. I really hope they can help! My wife is ready to toss the whole system because of this.

Haha, same. “Babe, I’ve updated our sound system.” “Why can’t it just work like our old Yamaha did?”

I’m surprised to not find any posts related to choosing SPDIF input as a preset. Cycling the inputs on the remote is like shooting with your eyes closed, hoping for the sound to work at one point. The auto sensing feature doesn’t work perfectly if you’re toggling between streaming music and the sound from the TV.

Otherwise, I also need to be able to adjust the trigger timing. Having a power amp and DAC all connected to the trigger port (for ease of use and wife acceptance factor) would certainly benefit from being able to adjust the delay. I would actually want the trigger to go off first, and then a few seconds later my WiiM to go off. When triggering on, the the WiiM first and then the rest a few seconds later.

 

[poptopclk]

This 2.5 minute TRIGGER OFF SUCKS.
I set the WiiM standby to NEVER and when I pause music to go get a drink I hear CLICK as my amps get turned OFF by the WiiM
No matter what I do 2 1/2 minutes and Click off goes everything on the 12 v trigger chain.
If WiiM is ON then I want everything ON, when I use remote to turn WiiM OFF hen I want everything on the trigger OFF too

SIMPLE........... PLEASE FIX THIS ISSUE

 

[Brantome]

This 2.5 minute TRIGGER OFF SUCKS.
I set the WiiM standby to NEVER and when I pause music to go get a drink I hear CLICK as my amps get turned OFF by the WiiM
No matter what I do 2 1/2 minutes and Click off goes everything on the 12 v trigger chain.
If WiiM is ON then I want everything ON, when I use remote to turn WiiM OFF hen I want everything on the trigger OFF too

SIMPLE........... PLEASE FIX THIS ISSUE

What’s your ticket number and I’ll try and escalate it to WiiM on your behalf.

 

[PeterMann]

The auto sensing feature doesn’t work perfectly if you’re toggling between streaming music and the sound from the TV.

This is incredibly annoying for me, because it seems like there’s a really simple behaviour that would always work correctly…

Just have the input switch to WIFI when something is actually being streamed (eg. Via AirPlay in my case), and switch back to the optical (which surely most everyone is using for TV) when streaming stops.

At the moment I have to wait a couple of seconds for TV audio to fade up every time I start a new programme because of the auto sensing setup, even if I haven’t used the WiFi input recently.

And I don’t understand why that delay is even present — presumably because the TV audio has to reach a certain threshold to trigger the optical input setting. But why? Are people’s optical signals noisy? Couldn’t the threshold be like -60dBFS and fade up within a quarter second of hearing TV audio?

The whole thing is a mystery to me. My only hope, since Wiim don’t seem to understand the use cases here very well, is that they make the input setup more configurable. If I could fine tune the behaviour and sensing thresholds and so on to get things working more smoothly I wouldn’t mind at all doing that work.

 

[PeterMann]

This 2.5 minute TRIGGER OFF SUCKS.
I set the WiiM standby to NEVER and when I pause music to go get a drink I hear CLICK as my amps get turned OFF by the WiiM
No matter what I do 2 1/2 minutes and Click off goes everything on the 12 v trigger chain.
If WiiM is ON then I want everything ON, when I use remote to turn WiiM OFF hen I want everything on the trigger OFF too

SIMPLE........... PLEASE FIX THIS ISSUE

I don’t want this exact behaviour myself but I have the same frustration, and both our problems would be solved by just adding a few more configuration options around the trigger timing and behaviour…

 

[poptopclk]

492184 is my ticket number.
Seems like many complaints about this exact issue.

 

[poptopclk]

What’s your ticket number and I’ll try and escalate it to WiiM on your behalf.

492184 is my ticket number

 

[SD2KING]

This is incredibly annoying for me, because it seems like there’s a really simple behaviour that would always work correctly…

Just have the input switch to WIFI when something is actually being streamed (eg. Via AirPlay in my case), and switch back to the optical (which surely most everyone is using for TV) when streaming stops.

At the moment I have to wait a couple of seconds for TV audio to fade up every time I start a new programme because of the auto sensing setup, even if I haven’t used the WiFi input recently.

And I don’t understand why that delay is even present — presumably because the TV audio has to reach a certain threshold to trigger the optical input setting. But why? Are people’s optical signals noisy? Couldn’t the threshold be like -60dBFS and fade up within a quarter second of hearing TV audio?

The whole thing is a mystery to me. My only hope, since Wiim don’t seem to understand the use cases here very well, is that they make the input setup more configurable. If I could fine tune the behaviour and sensing thresholds and so on to get things working more smoothly I wouldn’t mind at all doing that work.

Just don’t be watching tv while you’re streaming your music, without having muted your tv.

What goes beyond me, is that I cannot preset the optical in.