How to use Room Correction?

Did you reset eq prior running RC? Did you point the iPhone mic in between the speaker on ear level?
Yes reset and had phone at ear level with the microphone at the bottom of the phone aimed between the speakers
 
Delete what was save then click reset then turn off eq. RC will turn it on when you run it with new adjustment. Your first and second graph look identical.
 
The graph on first and second look identical. You need to delete what was save before otherwise your curve won’t change.
I’m resetting the eq before scanning and saving results to a new profile. Figures are changing but the sound is still really poor. Thanks
 

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I’m resetting the eq before scanning and saving results to a new profile. Figures are changing but the sound is still really poor. Thanks
My graph was flat after 4khz. I don’t know why there was pink on graph after 4K which are all elevated.
 
All your graph from first to third look identical. That pink after 4K should be ruler flat as it was not part of eq to be changed. Keep trying till you see that elevated after 4K ruler flat.
 
Your speakers have a very strange, uncorrected curve (the grey one). A sharp drop in treble above 1000 Hz should not be normal.
 
Thanks. Sounds exactly the same as before. Awful!
Your measured response looks awful 2-4kHz is over 25dB below 500Hz. Can that really be true? Room Correction will struggle to correct that. Does it generally sound "All about that bass, no treble" without room correction? If not your measurement looks wrong.
 
I’m resetting the eq before scanning and saving results to a new profile. Figures are changing but the sound is still really poor. Thanks

Select Harman curve run corrections and come back. Make sure iPhone mics are clean .
 
I don't think it matters which curve is chosen, the measured response is as someone else said "unusual".
Have you seen the target yellow line that is flat in the screenshot he shared? By default B&K is selected in official firmware which has -10db slope. Harman has even more downward tilt. Yanto has probably boomy bass due to speaker placement in corners and incorrect sub or subs integration.
 
Have you seen the target yellow line that is flat in the screenshot he shared? By default B&K is selected in official firmware which has -10db slope. Harman has even more downward tilt. Yanto has probably boomy bass due to speaker placement in corners and incorrect sub or subs integration.
Maybe that is the sound he likes. In my system and room I generally aim for flat and it definitely doesn't sound bright. In fact with Monitor Audio speakers it sounds slightly less bright than no EQ 😀
 
It worries me that the app is boosting so much in the low frequencies for some. It should not be doing this. You do often have to boost to get the adjustment back in line for the next reduction.
And how do you do time alignment?
Two different methodologies to achieve it, each relies on what the amp allows you to adjust and what the sub allows you to alter.

Check out manual for Housecurve it explains it there in the simplest form I have seen.

Basically using either one or a combo of a delay, adjusting speaker distance and using the phase adjustment on the sub.
 
Thanks. Sounds exactly the same as before. Awful!
You have a nasty bass and mid range hump that’s way too high, looking at that reading you have got used to it to some degree, your brain compensates for some high levels and you become accustomed to them over time. Changing to a more balanced sound will be a shock and will show up other weakness that’s been hiding.

So any significant correction is going to be a big change in how it sounds. Give yourself time to get used it. Without the RC that isn’t a good response of a speaker for a room at all. You may like it but I doubt it was designed like that.
 
It worries me that the app is boosting so much in the low frequencies for some. It should not be doing this. You do often have to boost to get the adjustment back in line for the next reduction.
I am thinking if this is safe. Even 3db boost means that the speaker will receive twice the power, can they handle it?However if you reduce volume by the amount of highest boost it should be safe right?
 
It worries me that the app is boosting so much in the low frequencies for some. It should not be doing this. You do often have to boost to get the adjustment back in line for the next reduction.

Two different methodologies to achieve it, each relies on what the amp allows you to adjust and what the sub allows you to alter.

Check out manual for Housecurve it explains it there in the simplest form I have seen.

Basically using either one or a combo of a delay, adjusting speaker distance and using the phase adjustment on the sub.
Ahh ok, no tocket sciene then.
I do that already…
 
And how do you do time alignment?

Above is a description how to do it with Housecurve, i don’t know if you can do something similar with Magnitude by setting manual level on WiiM RC and measuring at crossover. For me depending on placement it was ~ 2db but also my perception improved attack. Of course that 2db also impacts RC PEQ settings in the bass range.
 
Your measured response looks awful 2-4kHz is over 25dB below 500Hz. Can that really be true? Room Correction will struggle to correct that. Does it generally sound "All about that bass, no treble" without room correction? If not your measurement looks wrong.
Actually to my ears the issue I’ve had ever since building the new house is that the treble can be too imposing, and I experienced a high pitch echo. I can totally understand why people would think it’s a bass issue given the response graph. But that’s not how it sounds, which is why I was thinking I’m doing something wrong when using RC
 

Above is a description how to do it with Housecurve, i don’t know if you can do something similar with Magnitude by setting manual level on WiiM RC and measuring at crossover. For me depending on placement it was ~ 2db but also my perception improved attack. Of course that 2db also impacts RC PEQ settings in the bass range.
Did you adjust Subwoofer phase or time delay? So far I've only switched between 0 and 180 degrees phase which does make a big difference but is unlikely to be the best setting.
 
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