andI've been told that it's related to the PSU and it will be eliminated in the next HW iteration.
it shouldn't bother typical speakers
And, unfortunately, I do not see a way to switch to HDMI source using http api...Right, I forgot about it. I will add it a bit later.
I think there are two things mixed together - a class d amp switching frequency signal which is present on the speaker outputs, and hf signal which is present on the sub out. The last one is related to the PSU and it should be fixed with the next HW iteration.Hi, first off, thank you for the measurements!
Regarding the high frequency switching noise, you mention that
and
But I can't help wondering: since it affects both the speaker output and the sub output, it means it not only affects the amplification circuit, but the whole system…
Shouldn't this kind of HF noise be eliminated by decoupling capacitors at the output of the power supply?
Also, as the RCA inputs are converted to digital (meaning: sampled), can't the HF noise also cause aliasing and degrade the signal in this case?
And "eliminated in the next HW iteration", does it mean simply changing a few capacitor values, or changing the PSU layout at a deeper level? And did you get an estimate of when this would happen?
I just added the HDMI in your mediaplayer.py and it seems to work. I can switch to HDMI in HomeAssistant.And, unfortunately, I do not see a way to switch to HDMI source using http api...
SOURCES = {'line-in': 'Analog',
'optical': 'Toslink',
'HDMI': 'HDMI'}
SOURCES_MAP = {'-1': 'Idle',
'0': 'Idle',
'1': 'Airplay',
'2': 'DLNA',
'3': 'Amazon',
'4': '???',
'5': 'Chromecast',
'10': 'Network',
'20': 'Network',
'31': 'Spotify',
'32': 'TIDAL',
'33': 'Roon',
'34': 'Squeezelite',
'40': 'Analog',
'41': 'Bluetooth',
'43': 'Toslink',
'49': 'HDMI',
'99': 'Idle'}
SOURCES_IDLE = ['-1', '0', '99']
SOURCES_LIVEIN = ['40', '41', '43']
SOURCES_STREAM = ['1', '2', '3', '4', '5', '10', '20', '33', '34']
SOURCES_CONNECT = ['31', '32']
Interesting! I was calling setPlayerCmd:switchmode:HDMI for testing purposes and switching was not working for me.I just added the HDMI in your mediaplayer.py and it seems to work. I can switch to HDMI in HomeAssistant.
Python:SOURCES = {'line-in': 'Analog', 'optical': 'Toslink', 'HDMI': 'HDMI'} SOURCES_MAP = {'-1': 'Idle', '0': 'Idle', '1': 'Airplay', '2': 'DLNA', '3': 'Amazon', '4': '???', '5': 'Chromecast', '10': 'Network', '20': 'Network', '31': 'Spotify', '32': 'TIDAL', '33': 'Roon', '34': 'Squeezelite', '40': 'Analog', '41': 'Bluetooth', '43': 'Toslink', '49': 'HDMI', '99': 'Idle'} SOURCES_IDLE = ['-1', '0', '99'] SOURCES_LIVEIN = ['40', '41', '43'] SOURCES_STREAM = ['1', '2', '3', '4', '5', '10', '20', '33', '34'] SOURCES_CONNECT = ['31', '32']
I also have this issue with subwoofer 'put put' random interference when shutting off HDMI connected TV. For me it is rather loud, perhaps due to running the subwoofer on max volume. I have the latest firmware update as far as I know: 5.0.540148. I submitted a ticket: 495499. This is my biggest issue with the amp so far.Could this be related to
"Turning off an HDMI-connected Samsung ‘The Frame’ TV shuts off sound to the loudspeakers (as we’d expect) but a low-level randomised ‘put-put-put’ sound (noise interference?) continues to spill from the KEF KC62 subwoofer. I have to switch the WiiM AMP over to another input to make it stop...This subwoofer ‘noise interference’ also shows up sometimes – but not always – after having used the TOSLINK input." from
https://darko.audio/2023/11/wiim-amp-review-flying-high-on-value-for-money/
Was this fixed by the first firmware update?
I'm experiencing the same issue. Started after 5.0.540148 upgrade.I also have this issue with subwoofer 'put put' random interference when shutting off HDMI connected TV. For me it is rather loud, perhaps due to running the subwoofer on max volume. I have the latest firmware update as far as I know: 5.0.540148. I submitted a ticket: 495499. This is my biggest issue with the amp so far.
DoneHi Team,
It appears that the recent firmware update may be causing the 'put-put' noise when HDMI is turned off. To address this, could you please submit a ticket through the WiiM Home App? We'll promptly issue a fix to your device. After applying the fix, we'd be grateful if you could confirm whether the issue is resolved in your specific scenario. Your assistance is invaluable to us, and we appreciate your continued support.
Mine is also a "2" and has the buzzing sound. Maybe 4 is the fixed PCB?Looks like "PCB_version": "4" unit has appeared, according to the report on ASR. Mine is "2".
I would guess it's somewhat improved at least. The second revision of the Pro Plus got increased PCB_version.Mine is also a "2" and has the buzzing sound. Maybe 4 is the fixed PCB?
I see the post now. Sounds like they are also still having some minor coil whine on their version "4". Hmm.I would guess it's somewhat improved at least. The second revision of the Pro Plus got increased PCB_version.
They’re 8ohm speakers so i don’t see an issueI’ve posted this question in its own thread, but I thought posting it here might alert those who know their measurements and can do the sums.
Would the WiiM amp be able to drive a pair of Revel M106 speakers? Used in a room 3m x 5m, but at a distance of around 1.25m. I never listen at ear-bleeding loud levels.
WiiM Amp spec:
Specs for WiiM Amp | WiiM
www.wiimhome.com
Revel M106 spec:
M106 | 2-Way Bookshelf Monitor Loudspeaker
Performa3 bookshelf loudspeakers are true full-range loudspeakers that blend-in easily with your existing décor. They deliver an impressive combination of wide frequency range, uncompressed dynamic range and low distortion across the entire audible spectrum.www.revelspeakers.com
Many thanks.
My unit's serial number starts with P1TF2350 plus five more digits. That might indicate a manufacturing date in week 50 of 2023.It can be also irrelevant as the whole PCB_version story is just my theory.