I’ve not seen the beta sign up they’ve done in the past so I’d guess notIs the room correction beta out now?
Do you remember if wiim mention that you can use usb hub to connect flash drive and dac?I’ve not seen the beta sign up they’ve done in the past so I’d guess not
I’d think it’d be either or.Do you remember if wiim mention that you can use usb hub to connect flash drive and dac?
I asked a question along these lines to WiiM a long while ago, perhaps with more of a focus on simultaneous multiple outputs and they said they’d get their engineers to look into it. Darko alluded to it in his review of the Amp, but iirc in the context of two grouped WiiM devices with one delivering the main audio and the other the sub audio. I don’t recall seeing any firm commitment from WiiM to actually implement it.There has been some talk of somehow enabling a sub out option on the streamers (I’m not sure how, presumably digital out to a DAC for mains, analogue out for the sub). Any sign of this - I was thinking particularly it might be tied in with room correction.
Based on what the support team recently said here, it's highly unlikely that sub-outs will be implemented on the WiiM Pro or pro plus.There has been some talk of somehow enabling a sub out option on the streamers (I’m not sure how, presumably digital out to a DAC for mains, analogue out for the sub). Any sign of this - I was thinking particularly it might be tied in with room correction.
Yeah, you could take option 1 as being what Darko was alluding to. As mentioned elsewhere by @Mr Ee iirc, you might be able to implement some sort of filter for the sub by agressively applying some PEQ on the WiiM device it's attached to.Based on what the support team recently said here, it's highly unlikely that sub-outs will be implemented on the WiiM Pro or pro plus.
Subwoofer out
Just got a ProPlus that is working fine. Would like to have better interface to powered subwoofer. Am currently feeding the sub with rca direct from the ProPlus and passing through via rca out to active speakers. Found this thread from Feb/23 in the FAQ-- Feb 3, 2023 No, the WiiM Pro...forum.wiimhome.com
Yes, I've tried 1 method here before.Yeah, you could take option 1 as being what Darko was alluding to. As mentioned elsewhere by @Mr Ee iirc, you might be able to implement some sort of filter for the sub by agressively applying some PEQ on the WiiM device it's attached to.
What you could do is use the PEQ on both devices, one acting as a high pass filter, the other as a low pass filter, when this facility becomes available, of course.Yeah, you could take option 1 as being what Darko was alluding to. As mentioned elsewhere by @Mr Ee iirc, you might be able to implement some sort of filter for the sub by agressively applying some PEQ on the WiiM device it's attached to.
I can’t see what’s stopping that being done already given that PEQ is available on all models - apply PEQ to two WiiM devices and group them. You will have restrictions like Linkplay grouping maxing out at 24/48 iirc but you should be able to try it and see if it works. Unless I’m missing something…What you could do is use the PEQ on both devices, one acting as a high pass filter, the other as a low pass filter, when this facility becomes available, of course.
I can’t see what’s stopping that being done already given that PEQ is available on all models - apply PEQ to two WiiM devices and group them. You will have restrictions like Linkplay grouping maxing out at 24/48 iirc but you should be able to try it and see if it works. Unless I’m missing something…
PEQ 1 can be LS or PK, 2 & 3 PK, and 4 HS or PK, while the GEQ has ten frequency settings.
Couldn’t you in effect use those as filters by modifying the gain either side of your desired frequency? Maybe not entirely effective or purist, but perhaps worth a try?
This is what's available already. A setting of say 80 Hz doesn't mean "everything above that" for the high-pass and "everything below that" for the low-pass. It specifies the crossover point. Depending on filter type and/or slope this means either -3 dB or -6 dB (for all relevant filters).Better still a crossover, so that these can be set together accurately (above 80hz on one and above 80hz on the other isn’t correct, due to the roll off in each), but I appreciate that’s not going to happen.
This is what's available already. A setting of say 80 Hz doesn't mean "everything above that" for the high-pass and "everything below that" for the low-pass. It specifies the crossover point. Depending on filter type and/or slope this means either -3 dB or -6 dB (for all relevant filters).
Thus the summed output of mains and subwoofer will be flat (if their frequency range is flat otherwise in that area and room resonances don't affect this frequency).
I believe the current setting to beabsolutely adequate in most all cases. What is missing though is a means of adding delay to either mains or sub. This could be done using distance values or direct dinput of delay or by means of a virtual phase knob.
The current toggle switch should rather be called polarity, not phase. Unfortunately most sub makers are using this same terminology.