What Sub’s are you using / recommend

RSL 10E is incredible for $300 USD. I’ve also used the Jamo C910 in a smaller room with pretty good results. The RSL is much more textured and dynamics, however
 
Wiim Amp Pro with 2 B&W M1 satellites and a Linn Komponent 120 sub.

Speaker choice was dictated by the room, in this case my kitchen, which is quite small. B&Ws on the wall, K 120 on top of the tall kitchen units. Works well. Linn sub is not the best, but it fits the space... I have an SVS SB12 sub in my living room and that is a beast!

The Amp Pro addition in the kitchen has made it even better though, and that's all that matters.
 
DRC said:
For the SW-5:
Frequency range: 35-130Hz
My view is that a decent subwoofer should go down to at least 20Hz.
Click to expand...
These are decent for a reasonable price
rslspeakers.com

Landing Page - 10E

RSL Speakers - A division of Rogersound Labs - is a factory direct loudspeaker manufacturer, since 1970, based in Los Angeles, California. Family owned and operated.
rslspeakers.com rslspeakers.com
Frequency Response:
  • (anechoic): 26-200 Hz ± 3db
rslspeakers.com

Speedwoofer 10S MKII

Features: 400 watts RMS / 1020 watts peak Cast-frame 10” woofer w/ improved thermal capacity LFE mode offers deeper extension (22Hz!) Music mode matches original 10S w/ improved dynamics Rear-vented Compression Guide™ tuning Wireless receiver built in. Option to add transmitter during checkout*...
rslspeakers.com rslspeakers.com
Frequency Response:
  • MKII/LFE mode (anechoic): 22-200 Hz ± 3db
 
wiimamp user said:
Ok but isn't there more to it then how low the frequency can go?
Click to expand...
Of course but now you're into trade-offs in the outer edges of optimization. There are some tracks that have low end tones that don't get exposed on equipment without the low-end range. Once you hear the detail on a track, it feels subdued on a system that can't quite get there. I don't have 'golden ears' so this is what works for me.
 
hoohoohoo said:
Of course but now you're into trade-offs in the outer edges of optimization. There are some tracks that have low end tones that don't get exposed on equipment without the low-end range. Once you hear the detail on a track, it feels subdued on a system that can't quite get there. I don't have 'golden ears' so this is what works for me.
Click to expand...
I think..one would just listen to 2 different subs blindly..one with lower frequency the other is the audiopro.
I wonder if you can say the one with the lower frequency sound better..is more accurate..if you know what I mean.
Numbers maybe don't tell the whole picture that's what I'm saying...
 
wiimamp user said:
I think..one would just listen to 2 different subs blindly..one with lower frequency the other is the audiopro.
I wonder if you can say the one with the lower frequency sound better..is more accurate..if you know what I mean.
Numbers maybe don't tell the whole picture that's what I'm saying...
Click to expand...
For sure...if you can find a dealer or manage to get two into your own system without a lot of switching hassle for a side-by-side comparison, this would be best. Good luck on your quest :)
 
I've been buying subs for over 30 years. Here's some advice:
  1. Unless you live in an unpopulated area, always buy used. Subs and amps last forever. And subs don't get that much better over time.
    1. Offerup and Facebook Marketplace alerts are your friends.
      1. Last year I bought an SVS PB-1000 Pro for $180. Last month I picked up an SVS SB-3000 for $450. About 7 years ago I bought an SVS SB-2000 (non-pro) for $280. All of them work perfectly.
      2. If you ever want to sell, and you bought it for a good price, you'll probably be able to sell yours for the same price you bought it for.
  2. Shop using test results, like this continually updated spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dU5OOnf3nVgctJszmfyBjaxK69dkXte6ZL6anVTW2_M/edit?usp=sharing
  3. And to skip the constant want to upgrade, get something that can hit 20Hz or below at it's -6dB point in the response curve.
  4. Your room size matters: you might need two subs.
 
Abstracted said:
I've been buying subs for over 30 years. Here's some advice:
  1. Unless you live in an unpopulated area, always buy used. Subs and amps last forever. And subs don't get that much better over time.
    1. Offerup and Facebook Marketplace alerts are your friends.
      1. Last year I bought an SVS PB-1000 Pro for $180. Last month I picked up an SVS SB-3000 for $450. About 7 years ago I bought an SVS SB-2000 (non-pro) for $280. All of them work perfectly.
      2. If you ever want to sell, and you bought it for a good price, you'll probably be able to sell yours for the same price you bought it for.
  2. Shop using test results, like this continually updated spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dU5OOnf3nVgctJszmfyBjaxK69dkXte6ZL6anVTW2_M/edit?usp=sharing
  3. And to skip the constant want to upgrade, get something that can hit 20Hz or below at it's -6dB point in the response curve.
  4. Your room size matters: you might need two subs.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice👌
 
Abstracted said:
I've been buying subs for over 30 years. Here's some advice:
  1. Unless you live in an unpopulated area, always buy used. Subs and amps last forever. And subs don't get that much better over time.
    1. Offerup and Facebook Marketplace alerts are your friends.
      1. Last year I bought an SVS PB-1000 Pro for $180. Last month I picked up an SVS SB-3000 for $450. About 7 years ago I bought an SVS SB-2000 (non-pro) for $280. All of them work perfectly.
      2. If you ever want to sell, and you bought it for a good price, you'll probably be able to sell yours for the same price you bought it for.
  2. Shop using test results, like this continually updated spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dU5OOnf3nVgctJszmfyBjaxK69dkXte6ZL6anVTW2_M/edit?usp=sharing
  3. And to skip the constant want to upgrade, get something that can hit 20Hz or below at it's -6dB point in the response curve.
  4. Your room size matters: you might need two subs.
Click to expand...

1) Sub plate amps don't last forever, they do go faulty and typically they are not repairable. Also you may find they are expensive to replace, or unavailable as the sub brand no longer supplies replacement amps. A SVS PC Plus amp (BASH) died after about 15 years, which is a acceptable length of usage, however they could not supply a like for like amp
 
Oh dear … I did a thing again. Having very recently upgraded from an Amp Pro to Amp Ultra, I’m kind of pushing my aging JBL PSW1000 to its limits … and actually hearing it, to where it’s now unfortunately the weak link in my system. I was eyeballing the upcoming WiiM Sub Pro, but then went on a massive tear through every reference and review I could find in search of the best upgrade that won’t break the bank. I retired earlier this year, so money is definitely an object, but I know there are options out there that will give me a bump up and still fit in the budget. I want something with more power than the JBL’s 100 watts; I want it to go deeper than the JBL’s 30hz; and I want it to be cleaner and more precise. Oh, and I’m a little space-constrained, so it has to be not much bigger than the JBL’s 13” width. I thought I was going to be limited to another 10” sub, until I landed on the spec page for the SVS SB1000 Pro, which for some reason I had previously overlooked. Maybe I just didn’t pay attention to it because I assumed anything housing a 12” driver would be too big. But a little deeper digging revealed that this guy comes in a very compact box for a 12”, and all the other specs check all my boxes. Every review says it punches above its weight, especially for music, which is mostly what I’ll be using it for. Best yet, Amazon has open box units for 20% off, and I’ve had good luck with open box gear … so I bit. Expected to be here some time tomorrow, which means I’ll be spending all day Friday dialing it in, after which I’ll be blathering extensively about it right here. More to come …
 
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