What Sub’s are you using / recommend

I have a pair of LS50 Meta’s, am interested in a Sub, what are you guys using and experience using the WiiM Amp, and connectivity, using the settings of the Sub Out how do u find it “offloads” the Mains which i would assume would benefit the WiiM Amp at the low end, vs the recommended full range speaker out from Rel. realize will be lots of variations depending on mains, my shortlist - Rel Tzero certainly good budget option, SVS 3000 Micro or Kef KC62 but expensive, oh i don’t want larger (e.g Rel 5X) I like clean / tight bass and must come in White. Room is Medium 5m x 4m. I have listened to both Rel and Kef as although i heard lots of issues with KC62 but with LS50W2. Thanks for any Thoughts
Also running LS50 Meta's, paired with 2 SVS SB1000 subs (y)
 
Oh dear … I did a thing again. Having very recently upgraded from an Amp Pro to Amp Ultra, I’m kind of pushing my aging JBL PSW1000 to its limits … and actually hearing it, to where it’s now unfortunately the weak link in my system. I was eyeballing the upcoming WiiM Sub Pro, but then went on a massive tear through every reference and review I could find in search of the best upgrade that won’t break the bank. I retired earlier this year, so money is definitely an object, but I know there are options out there that will give me a bump up and still fit in the budget. I want something with more power than the JBL’s 100 watts; I want it to go deeper than the JBL’s 30hz; and I want it to be cleaner and more precise. Oh, and I’m a little space-constrained, so it has to be not much bigger than the JBL’s 13” width. I thought I was going to be limited to another 10” sub, until I landed on the spec page for the SVS SB1000 Pro, which for some reason I had previously overlooked. Maybe I just didn’t pay attention to it because I assumed anything housing a 12” driver would be too big. But a little deeper digging revealed that this guy comes in a very compact box for a 12”, and all the other specs check all my boxes. Every review says it punches above its weight, especially for music, which is mostly what I’ll be using it for. Best yet, Amazon has open box units for 20% off, and I’ve had good luck with open box gear … so I bit. Expected to be here some time tomorrow, which means I’ll be spending all day Friday dialing it in, after which I’ll be blathering extensively about it right here. More to come …
That should be a very nice subwoofer. When you go to integrate it, are you using the bass management of your WiiM streamer? WiiM's automatic time-sync is very handy and, in my experience, does a quite good job. This will be particularly handy for your new sub because the SVS subs with DSP have (on average) ~7.2ms due to the DSP, but the WiiM will have no problem at all compensating for that (delaying the main speakers).

Assuming you're using the WiiM for bass management, here's my suggestion:
1) decide whether you're looking to maximize imaging accuracy versus bottom-end extension and weight. I say this because if you are able to/if it is practical enough, and you're aiming for the best imaging accuracy possible, placing the sub perfectly equidistance (centered) between your speakers will allow you to get the best overall stereo effect (will not suffer any chance of localization of bass sounds either to the left or to the right). If you are able to place the sub as close as you can towards the back wall behind your system, you can still get good room gain. Conversely if you just want to maximize extension and weight, a corner spot would yield that result
2) obviously, place the sub where it would get you the result you seek most. SB-1000 Pro is front-firing, so if you aim the driver to fire towards the MLP, you can maximize upper bass punch, especially if the sub is placed dead center. If you're placing the sub in a corner somewhere, you may want to consider pointing it some direction away from the main listening position, to help reduce the likelihood of localizing the sub while listening
3) Download the SVS app and also HouseCurve for your smart phone or tablet (it is FREE!), hook everything up, and set your crossover. If you're putting the sub in the corner, you probably want to keep crossover at 80Hz or lower. If the sub is placed dead center, you can safely run the crossover higher, as high as 110 or even 120Hz, to further improve upper bass punch. All that said, it also depends on the bass output capabilities of your main loudspeakers. Make sure to use the Subwoofer/Speaker Sync function in the Subwoofer panel of the WiiM Home App to time-align the sub to the speakers!
4) Run a sweep through HouseCurve, use you finger to slide a marker line to the crossover frequency to help visualize the crossover point easier. Is any part of the curve where the sub is playing significantly lower than the speaker portion of the curve? If so, use the SVS app to raise the volume a bit, run another sweep, take another look, until the volume of the sub looks reasonably matched to the speakers--keep in mind that you can go a little high volume with the sub, and the next step will speak to why
5) the SVS app has a PEQ section. SVS DSP has 3 user-controlled PEQ filters you can apply, with a maximum boost pf +6dB and a maximum cut of -12dB. Use the PEQ feature to get the subwoofer's response as close to flat as possible at the main listening position. You'd be surprised how well those 3 PEQ filters can work!
6) after dialing all that in, go ahead and perform WiiM RoomFit correction to dial in the last piece. I highly recommend limiting boosts to no more than +5dB, Q factors no higher than 6, and for the correction range, many people recommend not going over 300Hz, although personally I think it is safe to go up to 2,000Hz. Your call there.

Enjoy!

-Ed
 
That should be a very nice subwoofer. When you go to integrate it, are you using the bass management of your WiiM streamer? WiiM's automatic time-sync is very handy and, in my experience, does a quite good job. This will be particularly handy for your new sub because the SVS subs with DSP have (on average) ~7.2ms due to the DSP, but the WiiM will have no problem at all compensating for that (delaying the main speakers).

Assuming you're using the WiiM for bass management, here's my suggestion:
1) decide whether you're looking to maximize imaging accuracy versus bottom-end extension and weight. I say this because if you are able to/if it is practical enough, and you're aiming for the best imaging accuracy possible, placing the sub perfectly equidistance (centered) between your speakers will allow you to get the best overall stereo effect (will not suffer any chance of localization of bass sounds either to the left or to the right). If you are able to place the sub as close as you can towards the back wall behind your system, you can still get good room gain. Conversely if you just want to maximize extension and weight, a corner spot would yield that result
2) obviously, place the sub where it would get you the result you seek most. SB-1000 Pro is front-firing, so if you aim the driver to fire towards the MLP, you can maximize upper bass punch, especially if the sub is placed dead center. If you're placing the sub in a corner somewhere, you may want to consider pointing it some direction away from the main listening position, to help reduce the likelihood of localizing the sub while listening
3) Download the SVS app and also HouseCurve for your smart phone or tablet (it is FREE!), hook everything up, and set your crossover. If you're putting the sub in the corner, you probably want to keep crossover at 80Hz or lower. If the sub is placed dead center, you can safely run the crossover higher, as high as 110 or even 120Hz, to further improve upper bass punch. All that said, it also depends on the bass output capabilities of your main loudspeakers. Make sure to use the Subwoofer/Speaker Sync function in the Subwoofer panel of the WiiM Home App to time-align the sub to the speakers!
4) Run a sweep through HouseCurve, use you finger to slide a marker line to the crossover frequency to help visualize the crossover point easier. Is any part of the curve where the sub is playing significantly lower than the speaker portion of the curve? If so, use the SVS app to raise the volume a bit, run another sweep, take another look, until the volume of the sub looks reasonably matched to the speakers--keep in mind that you can go a little high volume with the sub, and the next step will speak to why
5) the SVS app has a PEQ section. SVS DSP has 3 user-controlled PEQ filters you can apply, with a maximum boost pf +6dB and a maximum cut of -12dB. Use the PEQ feature to get the subwoofer's response as close to flat as possible at the main listening position. You'd be surprised how well those 3 PEQ filters can work!
6) after dialing all that in, go ahead and perform WiiM RoomFit correction to dial in the last piece. I highly recommend limiting boosts to no more than +5dB, Q factors no higher than 6, and for the correction range, many people recommend not going over 300Hz, although personally I think it is safe to go up to 2,000Hz. Your call there.

Enjoy!

-Ed
Great info here - I will definitely follow these steps! I do use the WiiM Home app’s bass management and speaker-sub sync. I might save the SVS EQ-in for later after I’ve had some time to digest it all. I’m excited to hear how a *good* sub sounds in this setup.
 
Great info here - I will definitely follow these steps! I do use the WiiM Home app’s bass management and speaker-sub sync. I might save the SVS EQ-in for later after I’ve had some time to digest it all. I’m excited to hear how a *good* sub sounds in this setup.
Bear in mind that the speaker-sub sync only works correctly when the WiiM device is in your listening position as it uses the microphone in the device.
 
Wait, so it does not use the phone mic or the mic attached to the phone? Damn, this is horrendous. I sit 10 feet away! 😭

-Ed
I think we all assumed it would but WiiM used the device mic. It probably works OK to eliminate DSP delays but not to optimise the response around the crossover.
 
Adding and entering the additional delay caused by the distance between the MLP and the WiiM device manually (on top of what auto-sync detected) is doable, of course.

I'm taking this back.
 
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Adding and entering the additional delay caused by the distance between the MLP and the WiiM device manually (on top of what auto-sync detected) is doable, of course.
This is very complicated (for me). My big subwoofer handling LFE infra/low bass is to the far left, one of the small subs handling a left channel band between my big sub and my left speaker is close to the big sub, on the left, then the other small sub which plays a right channel band of upper bass sits to the right, similar but not exactly same distance from the WiiM itself, so the WiiM is sitting between the two subs that need to be time aligned to the big sub, and the difference between that distance from the big sub to the WiiM and the distance of either of the small subs to the WiiM is significantly bigger than the difference in distance between the big sub to the MLP and the distance of either small sub to the MLP. As in the big sub's acoustic center is probably 2' farther from the WiiM Ultra than the acoustic center of either small sub (to which it is crossed to), but the distance of the big sub is probably less than 1' farther from the main listening position than either of the small subs, because the WiiM forms the center of one side of the triangle, whereas the MLP is an opposite corner of the triangle formed by the subs.

Like, black circle is PC-2000 Pro, purple squares are 3000 Minis, orange rectangles (I can't figure out how to toe them in) are LS50 Metas, red square is WiiM Ultra, and blue arrow is I (with grey room boundaries):
1753302231716.png

-Ed
 

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This is very complicated (for me). My big subwoofer handling LFE infra/low bass is to the far left, one of the small subs handling a left channel band between my big sub and my left speaker is close to the big sub, on the left, then the other small sub which plays a right channel band of upper bass sits to the right, similar but not exactly same distance from the WiiM itself, so the WiiM is sitting between the two subs that need to be time aligned to the big sub, and the difference between that distance from the big sub to the WiiM and the distance of either of the small subs to the WiiM is significantly bigger than the difference in distance between the big sub to the MLP and the distance of either small sub to the MLP. As in the big sub's acoustic center is probably 2' farther from the WiiM Ultra than the acoustic center of either small sub (to which it is crossed to), but the distance of the big sub is probably less than 1' farther from the main listening position than either of the small subs, because the WiiM forms the center of one side of the triangle, whereas the MLP is an opposite corner of the triangle formed by the subs.

Like, black circle is PC-2000 Pro, purple squares are 3000 Minis, orange rectangles (I can't figure out how to toe them in) are LS50 Metas, red square is WiiM Ultra, and blue arrow is I (with grey room boundaries):
View attachment 24553
Yes, your cases is certainly special. :D

It tried to keep up with all the configuration changes to your system during the last months (I really did) but I must admit that I failed. Which means: I have no ideal how exactly you feed the single PC-2000 Pro and the pair of 3000 Minis from your Ultra. The Ultra is back and you do use its subwoofer output, right?

If all subs are ultimately fed from the Ultra's subwoofer output then obviously the Ultra alone can only correct the latency for one distance to the main listening place, not two. If you don't use the Ultra's sub out then it's bass management is out anyway, obviously. The base principle remains, one (set of) output(s) can only add a single latency value. But since you're explicitly talking about the auto-sync feature I think that the Ultra is still in. :)

The slightly different distance from the Ultra to each of your 3000 Minis probably doesn't matter much anyway. The latency resolution is currently limited to 1 ms steps so any difference < 34 cm/13.5" cannot be corrected for, anyway.

Also, the lower the crossover frequency (and thus the longer the wavelength) the less influence any misalignment will have. Looking at your graphs I think there's probably not much you had to correct for.

And I will go one step further. I will take back my previous comment implying that adding a delay to make up for the distance between WiiM Ultra and listening position would be somehow easy to do. No, I think it's not exactly easy (sorry for implying the contrary) and I'll even go one step further and propose that the WiiM's auto-sync result is a good enough approximation in most real world cases.
 
Yes, your cases is certainly special. :D

It tried to keep up with all the configuration changes to your system during the last months (I really did) but I must admit that I failed. Which means: I have no ideal how exactly you feed the single PC-2000 Pro and the pair of 3000 Minis from your Ultra. The Ultra is back and you do use its subwoofer output, right?

If all subs are ultimately fed from the Ultra's subwoofer output then obviously the Ultra alone can only correct the latency for one distance to the main listening place, not two. If you don't use the Ultra's sub out then it's bass management is out anyway, obviously. The base principle remains, one (set of) output(s) can only add a single latency value. But since you're explicitly talking about the auto-sync feature I think that the Ultra is still in. :)

The slightly different distance from the Ultra to each of your 3000 Minis probably doesn't matter much anyway. The latency resolution is currently limited to 1 ms steps so any difference < 34 cm/13.5" cannot be corrected for, anyway.

Also, the lower the crossover frequency (and thus the longer the wavelength) the less influence any misalignment will have. Looking at your graphs I think there's probably not much you had to correct for.

And I will go one step further. I will take back my previous comment implying that adding a delay to make up for the distance between WiiM Ultra and listening position would be somehow easy to do. No, I think it's not exactly easy (sorry for implying the contrary) and I'll even go one step further and propose that the WiiM's auto-sync result is a good enough approximation in most real world cases.
At the moment, I have reverted to using the WiiM bass management to integrate the PC-2000 Pro at 60Hz to the rest of the chain. The rest of the chain being a miniDSP Flex (digital I/O version) which has one DAC feeding the speakers and a second DAC feeding the two small subs, which are crossed over to the speakers at 160Hz. The miniDSP applies DIRAC Live to the speakers and small subs, and an Anti-Mode 8033S-II room corrects the PC-2000 Pro, so only using WiiM bass management and not RoomFit.

-Ed
 
Oh dear … I did a thing again. Having very recently upgraded from an Amp Pro to Amp Ultra, I’m kind of pushing my aging JBL PSW1000 to its limits … and actually hearing it, to where it’s now unfortunately the weak link in my system. I was eyeballing the upcoming WiiM Sub Pro, but then went on a massive tear through every reference and review I could find in search of the best upgrade that won’t break the bank. I retired earlier this year, so money is definitely an object, but I know there are options out there that will give me a bump up and still fit in the budget. I want something with more power than the JBL’s 100 watts; I want it to go deeper than the JBL’s 30hz; and I want it to be cleaner and more precise. Oh, and I’m a little space-constrained, so it has to be not much bigger than the JBL’s 13” width. I thought I was going to be limited to another 10” sub, until I landed on the spec page for the SVS SB1000 Pro, which for some reason I had previously overlooked. Maybe I just didn’t pay attention to it because I assumed anything housing a 12” driver would be too big. But a little deeper digging revealed that this guy comes in a very compact box for a 12”, and all the other specs check all my boxes. Every review says it punches above its weight, especially for music, which is mostly what I’ll be using it for. Best yet, Amazon has open box units for 20% off, and I’ve had good luck with open box gear … so I bit. Expected to be here some time tomorrow, which means I’ll be spending all day Friday dialing it in, after which I’ll be blathering extensively about it right here. More to come …
if you hadn't already picked a sub and if you were based in europe. i would have suggested a BK electronics sub like the P12-300SB-PR. https://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/P12300SB-PR.html

decent specs and generally well received by reviewers and customers alike...
 
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