This is what's available already. A setting of say 80 Hz doesn't mean "everything above that" for the high-pass and "everything below that" for the low-pass. It specifies the crossover point. Depending on filter type and/or slope this means either -3 dB or -6 dB (for all relevant filters).Better still a crossover, so that these can be set together accurately (above 80hz on one and above 80hz on the other isn’t correct, due to the roll off in each), but I appreciate that’s not going to happen.
This is what's available already. A setting of say 80 Hz doesn't mean "everything above that" for the high-pass and "everything below that" for the low-pass. It specifies the crossover point. Depending on filter type and/or slope this means either -3 dB or -6 dB (for all relevant filters).
Thus the summed output of mains and subwoofer will be flat (if their frequency range is flat otherwise in that area and room resonances don't affect this frequency).
I believe the current setting to beabsolutely adequate in most all cases. What is missing though is a means of adding delay to either mains or sub. This could be done using distance values or direct dinput of delay or by means of a virtual phase knob.
The current toggle switch should rather be called polarity, not phase. Unfortunately most sub makers are using this same terminology.
Yep, easy to get confused with so many feature requests and comments in so many different sub-forums, all concerning similar topics.
AVRs usually try to measure the distance to different speakers automatically, but the results are often mediocre, at best. Entering distance values from the MLP to the speakers looks like the most versatile option to me. It's easy enough to do for the average user and still gives full flexibility for those using their own measuring equipment anyway.
My Lyngdorf amplifier pretty much always returns a satisfactory result. No center, perfect sub integration. I can't seen why anyone wouldn't want the same from the WiiM Amp at a fraction of the cost.My Onkyo AVR has never returned a satisfactory result. The center channel is low volume, and the sub is too much volume. I can't see why anyone needs it for stereo. Use your ears. You will probably end up using them anyways.
I hope that WiiM allows the use of a Umik with their calibration software when it's available.
The Umik-1 (and Umik-2) are the most widely used in home audio calibration. There are certainly other options, but if you look around all the audio forums, from home theatre to hifi, people are using Umiks because they are not too expensive, come with calibration, and run with just a USB connection (no mic preamp or separate power).
If WiiM try to enable calibration using smartphone mics, they will likely run into the issues that Buchardt has encountered: too many different phones with too many different mics that are not well suited to measuring frequency sweeps accurately.
Do you mean 8 band PEQ as shown n your roadmap?Hi Team,
Thank you for your continued patience regarding the development of the room correction feature and the 10-band Parametric Equalizer (PEQ). Our team is diligently working on these enhancements. We are excited to announce that we aim to release the Beta version in the upcoming two weeks. Please stay tuned!
Hi Team,
Thank you for your continued patience regarding the development of the room correction feature and the 10-band Parametric Equalizer (PEQ). Our team is diligently working on these enhancements. We are excited to announce that we aim to release the Beta version in the upcoming two weeks. Please stay tuned!
Why you need separate on left and right unless you put your speakers on unusual setup?if the application can consider left and right separately , 2* 8 , would be a real plus...
Because few people have a "usual setup".Why you need separate on left and right unless you put your speakers on unusual setup?