What products you'd like to see WiiM produce?

[BK308]

Sounds like you got it all figured out just don’t use the sub volume on the new remote lol

 

[taube Taube]

Sounds like you got it all figured out just don’t use the sub volume on the new remote lol

I like that we're already using the new remote! Now all I have to do is pinch myself and wake up.

 

[BK308]

I like that we're already using the new remote! Now all I have to do is pinch myself and wake up.

No let’s keep it going lol people want a new remote control. It’s not a ridiculous suggestion.

 

[taube Taube]

No let’s keep it going lol people want a new remote control. It’s not a ridiculous suggestion.

I don't mind. Since the new remote control will have two signal transmission channels, Bluetooth and IR, it is theoretically possible to implement adjustments on both the external amplifier and the Wiim simultaneously with a couple of buttons, but I am not sure that such a solution is accurate enough.

 

[mlsstl]

Would an IR remote work with the existing units? Or are people just asking for something going forward? Just speaking personally, I'm not sure what the point is of an IR remote compared to the existing wi-fi one.

 

[castalla]

Compact CD with cd-text enabled & displayed in now playing page

 

[Steve Woodhouse]

Not sure I understand your linking balanced connections to room EQ, has nothing to do with my request, very odd … the fact of the matter is I need balanced connections for new active speakers and without this capability I will not purchase the Wiim and will rather go with a competitor. It’s not complicated and your “psychoanalysis” of my request is just silly.

So I completely see where you're coming from, but there is a solution.

You can purchase a DAC with balanced outs and place that in between the WiiM and your speakers, digital out from the WiiM.

This may or may not help you, but it is a solution.

 

[Steve Woodhouse]

Thanks, but it's not necessary at all. I have floor-standing speakers and a powerful amplifier, the bass is more than enough. In addition, I have a Pro Plus without connecting a subwoofer. In any case, separate adjustment is not very convenient?

Well, whilst that works for you, it's oversimplistic as a guide for everyone.

Which floorstanders do you have? Some don't go a lot below a decent paid of standmounts, if at all, and most go nowhere near as low as a subwoofer.

In addition, floorstanders may be too big, or the user simply may not like the look of them. Floorstanders often don't work in a nearfield set up.

I have a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 12.1s, which have an F3 of c.60Hz, and an F10 of c.45Hz, which is pretty low - my sub takes me down to 17Hz at -6dB, and is probably +/-0dB at 35Hz (very few pop/rock recordings go below this anyway).

Regarding room correction and set up, it's the tiniest bit more of an effort with a sub, but nothing to worry about. For me the secret is simply to put the sub in a corner, get mad bass, and tame it. That's better than a more central position, and getting bass nulls that you just can't EQ out. By the way, this is another issue with floorstanders. The LF part of the frequency spectrum is tied to the positioning of your main speakers, and can't be moved. As we all know, with a subwoofer, initial placement (and experimentation with that) is the key to getting the sound right. You just don't have that level of flexibility with floorstanders; if you get your speakers placement right for the majority of the frequency range, then find you have bass nulls, you're pretty much shafted.

Horses for courses.

 

[Valentino]

A Superultra!
Basic Ultra functionality but with:
SE and Bal line inputs.
Analog phono stage(s). Steal the Cambridge Audio Alva Duo topology…
Even better ADC performance.
Stereo sub output (SE and Bal) for better bass room integration (two PEQ sets)
SE and Bal output.
Full HDMI functionality.
43 cm wide cabinet (this thing will need a large rear panel).
(The Ultra is the modern Yamaha WXC-50. The Superultra would be the modern Slimdevices Transporter.)

 

[Matt_Holland]

A Superultra!
Basic Ultra functionality but with:
SE and Bal line inputs.
Analog phono stage(s). Steal the Cambridge Audio Alva Duo topology…
Even better ADC performance.
Stereo sub output (SE and Bal) for better bass room integration (two PEQ sets)
SE and Bal output.
Full HDMI functionality.
43 cm wide cabinet (this thing will need a large rear panel).
(The Ultra is the modern Yamaha WXC-50. The Superultra would be the modern Slimdevices Transporter.)

I’d take this even further and call it the SuperUltraPro…

Everything you listed plus:
AES3 output
Dante 2in/2out (with output matrix mixer for all inputs).

A matching Purify based stereo amp with at least 400w @4ohm too please.

 

[slartibartfast]

Well, whilst that works for you, it's oversimplistic as a guide for everyone.

Which floorstanders do you have? Some don't go a lot below a decent paid of standmounts, if at all, and most go nowhere near as low as a subwoofer.

In addition, floorstanders may be too big, or the user simply may not like the look of them. Floorstanders often don't work in a nearfield set up.

I have a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 12.1s, which have an F3 of c.60Hz, and an F10 of c.45Hz, which is pretty low - my sub takes me down to 17Hz at -6dB, and is probably +/-0dB at 35Hz (very few pop/rock recordings go below this anyway).

Regarding room correction and set up, it's the tiniest bit more of an effort with a sub, but nothing to worry about. For me the secret is simply to put the sub in a corner, get mad bass, and tame it. That's better than a more central position, and getting bass nulls that you just can't EQ out. By the way, this is another issue with floorstanders. The LF part of the frequency spectrum is tied to the positioning of your main speakers, and can't be moved. As we all know, with a subwoofer, initial placement (and experimentation with that) is the key to getting the sound right. You just don't have that level of flexibility with floorstanders; if you get your speakers placement right for the majority of the frequency range, then find you have bass nulls, you're pretty much shafted.

Horses for courses.

I thought I would get a big bass boost from putting my sub in a corner but I didn't. Maybe it depends on the type of walls you have.

 

[taube Taube]

Would an IR remote work with the existing units? Or are people just asking for something going forward? Just speaking personally, I'm not sure what the point is of an IR remote compared to the existing wi-fi one.

We are talking about a combined remote control with 2 types of signal transmission, like the existing Bluetooth remote control with the ability to reassign buttons to the IR channel and the ability to learn from old remote controls so that these buttons can control any device, for example, the volume of amplifier.

 

[taube Taube]

Well, whilst that works for you, it's oversimplistic as a guide for everyone.

Which floorstanders do you have? Some don't go a lot below a decent paid of standmounts, if at all, and most go nowhere near as low as a subwoofer.

In addition, floorstanders may be too big, or the user simply may not like the look of them. Floorstanders often don't work in a nearfield set up.

I have a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 12.1s, which have an F3 of c.60Hz, and an F10 of c.45Hz, which is pretty low - my sub takes me down to 17Hz at -6dB, and is probably +/-0dB at 35Hz (very few pop/rock recordings go below this anyway).

Regarding room correction and set up, it's the tiniest bit more of an effort with a sub, but nothing to worry about. For me the secret is simply to put the sub in a corner, get mad bass, and tame it. That's better than a more central position, and getting bass nulls that you just can't EQ out. By the way, this is another issue with floorstanders. The LF part of the frequency spectrum is tied to the positioning of your main speakers, and can't be moved. As we all know, with a subwoofer, initial placement (and experimentation with that) is the key to getting the sound right. You just don't have that level of flexibility with floorstanders; if you get your speakers placement right for the majority of the frequency range, then find you have bass nulls, you're pretty much shafted.

Horses for courses.

This is not the topic for this discussion, but I will be brief. I have inexpensive Polk audio S50e, with a phase inverter directed to the floor. Since I do not listen very loudly, it is enough for me, and I do not like the sound of the subwoofer. Of course, others can build systems as they like, I did not impose an opinion, but responded to a colleague's post.

 

[Steve Woodhouse]

I thought I would get a big bass boost from putting my sub in a corner but I didn't. Maybe it depends on the type of walls you have.

The shape of your room, and all sorts of other factors.

Generally speaking, putting a sub in a corner you get a greater number/concentration of standing waves, which reduces nulls - if you're lucky (actually probably better to say if you're not unlucky) you'll end up with few or even no nulls, and the ones you have shouldn't be as big.

However, you may end up with plenty of peaks, but you can tame these with EQ.

It won't always work, but it's by far the easiest starting point.

 

[Steve Woodhouse]

This is not the topic for this discussion, but I will be brief. I have inexpensive Polk audio S50e, with a phase inverter directed to the floor. Since I do not listen very loudly, it is enough for me, and I do not like the sound of the subwoofer. Of course, others can build systems as they like, I did not impose an opinion, but responded to a colleague's post.

No problem. Just thought I'd thrown in an alternative view.

 

[Steve Woodhouse]

A Superultra!
Basic Ultra functionality but with:
SE and Bal line inputs.
Analog phono stage(s). Steal the Cambridge Audio Alva Duo topology…
Even better ADC performance.
Stereo sub output (SE and Bal) for better bass room integration (two PEQ sets)
SE and Bal output.
Full HDMI functionality.
43 cm wide cabinet (this thing will need a large rear panel).
(The Ultra is the modern Yamaha WXC-50. The Superultra would be the modern Slimdevices Transporter.)

I think there's some milage, in a new 'Uber' version', in the idea of an improved ADC stage.

The only thing I disagree with is it needing to be a lot bigger. The only additional connections you've mention are balanced (which could be TRS), a 2nd sub out, and a second possibly an HDMI out (depending on what you mean by 'full HDMI functionality.

The current Ultra basically has 6 'columns' of connections on the back, you'd only have to increase that to 7, or at most 8 'columns', to get everything in, and I think you could add an extra coax digital in with that. It's 200mm wide, so that'd make it 27 cm wide max. Even at 9 'columns' you're talking 30cm wide. Probably better to make it a bit taller, and add an extra 'row', thus increasing the size of the screen; something not possible if you increase the width (if you want to keep the same aspect ratio).

 

[Mamo]

when I had the DSpeaker antimode 2 it was very convenient to have its own microphone to connect to the front panel to take measurements. Well, I would like Wiim to have its own microphone to connect to the USB port.

 

[Vignus]

when I had the DSpeaker antimode 2 it was very convenient to have its own microphone to connect to the front panel to take measurements. Well, I would like Wiim to have its own microphone to connect to the USB port.

I second this 100%. RC is a very serious business and add immense value to a product. Why not making it smoother by giving the option of using a mic without having to rely on a phone? There are hundredss of different models of Android phones around, and the chances to get a proper RC are very slim.

 

[Valentino]

Yes. Add that functionality to my Superultra.

The Superultra must be 43 cm wide and have XLR connectors, not TRS. It’s an audiophile product you know, and audiophiles do not understand TRS. Audiophile cables with TRS connectors are hen’s teeth.

 

[hoohoohoo]

Yes. Add that functionality to my Superultra.
The Superultra must be 43 cm wide and have XLR connectors, not TRS. It’s an audiophile product you know.

It's the UltraMAX for the XLR connectors