How to think about room correction settings like frequency range and gain?

[QuarryHunslet]

Just to be sure, the app isn't available for my Windows desktop pc or my Macbook?

Is your Macbook a recent one with an M series processor? If it is, you will be able to install the iPad version of the WiiM Home App.

 

[Costes08]

Is your Macbook a recent one with an M series processor? If it is, you will be able to install the iPad version of the WiiM Home App.

Oh wow that's great news, yes it's a Macbook Pro, I think 2020 M1! I'll check this out

 

[QuarryHunslet]

Oh wow that's great news, yes it's a Macbook Pro, I think 2020 M1! I'll check this out

I’m using it on my MacStudio M1, and my MacBook Air M3.

 

[Costes08]

I’m using it on my MacStudio M1, and my MacBook Air M3.

Just installed the app, thanks man, you saved me quite some money will check Room Correction later today!

 

[harkpabst]

Just to be sure, the app isn't available for my Windows desktop pc or my Macbook?

Since you have a Windows PC and a MacBook you can also use the free software Room Equalisation Wizard (REW) to check the results you get. The UMIK-2 is one of the recommended choices for use with REW.

In fact, you can even use it for a much more fine grained room correction and many other things. It just takes some learning to get started.

Just checked, my Oppo A77 phone has a Mediatek chip: MediaTek Dimensity 810, so it might really be related to the Mediatek chip.

We still don't have enough data points for a valid statistical analysis, but @Wiimer might have had the right idea here. The confirmed troublesome cases all appear to be related to Meditec SoCs.

I am very sure that this sharp 10 dB step you get around 55 Hz is not real but an artefact.

 

[Costes08]

Since you have a Windows PC and a MacBook you can also use the free software Room Equalisation Wizard (REW) to check the results you get. The UMIK-2 is one of the recommended choices for use with REW.

In fact, you can even use it for a much more fine grained room correction and many other things. It just takes some learning to get started.


We still don't have enough data points for a valid statistical analysis, but @Wiimer might have had the right idea here. The confirmed troublesome cases all appear to be related to Meditec SoCs.

I am very sure that this sharp 10 dB step you get around 55 Hz is not real but an artefact.

Yes I heard about REW a lot, guess it will be the next thing I'll tackle! For now I'm happy that it works with my Macbook will post the updated curves later

 

[Costes08]

Alright, attached you find the new curves done with my Macbook - during the process, I only got the first graphic, after the verification, I got a "No chart data available" message - does this matter? I did 40-400hz, is this fine considering my Dynaudio Special 40 are rated 41hz (+/- 3db)?

Edit: Also added the curves from yesterday that were done with Oppo A77 Android phone for easy comparison

 

[Öggy]

Hey everyone,

I´m Joe, this is my first post, so just a quick hello from me! I’ve been reading along in the forum for a while and already picked up a bunch of helpful tips – thanks for sharing all that great info.

I’ve just started experimenting with the room correction feature on the WiiM Ultra. I’ve attached a few screenshots showing the settings I chose and the measurement results I got so far (Curve B&K).

Would love to hear what you think – especially from those of you with more experience. Any suggestions for improving the setup or tweaking the results would be super helpful!

Thanks a lot in advance – looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Cheers, Joe

 

[harkpabst]

I’ve just started experimenting with the room correction feature on the WiiM Ultra. I’ve attached a few screenshots showing the settings I chose and the measurement results I got so far (Curve B&K).

Would love to hear what you think – especially from those of you with more experience. Any suggestions for improving the setup or tweaking the results would be super helpful!

Welcome @Öggy,
It would be interesting to know which smartphone (and which external mic, if any) You've been using with RoomFit. Unfortunately, there are severe differences.

You could also add some basic information about your speakers and sub and their placement, so we know what to expect.

 

[Wiimer]

Hey everyone,

I´m Joe, this is my first post, so just a quick hello from me! I’ve been reading along in the forum for a while and already picked up a bunch of helpful tips – thanks for sharing all that great info.

I’ve just started experimenting with the room correction feature on the WiiM Ultra. I’ve attached a few screenshots showing the settings I chose and the measurement results I got so far (Curve B&K).

Would love to hear what you think – especially from those of you with more experience. Any suggestions for improving the setup or tweaking the results would be super helpful!

Thanks a lot in advance – looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Cheers, Joe

Hi,

Sorry, I'm not experienced, but at what Hz is your subwoofer crossed?

And can you tell us what model of speakers and sub you have? Perhaps experienced members can accurate advise.

 

[Öggy]

Hi guys, you are quick

I’m using a Galaxy A54G with a UMIK-1 (with calibration file)

Here’s a quick overview of my setup:

• Speakers: XTZ 99.36 FLR MK3 (Floorstanding)
• Subwoofer: Canton ASF 75 (wall-mounted – fixed position) (standard 80 HZ crossed)
• Listening distance: approx. 2.10 m (forming an equilateral triangle with the speakers)
• Tweeter-to-tweeter distance: approx. 2.15 m
• Left speaker distance: 1.04 m from front baffle to rear wall, ~1.30 m to side wall
• Right speaker distance: 1.02 m from front baffle to rear wall, ~1.30 m to side wall (so not perfectly symmetrical)
• Speaker toe-in: both are slightly angled toward the listening position (inner sides still visible)

 

[MCG555]

Hey everyone,

I´m Joe, this is my first post, so just a quick hello from me! I’ve been reading along in the forum for a while and already picked up a bunch of helpful tips – thanks for sharing all that great info.

I’ve just started experimenting with the room correction feature on the WiiM Ultra. I’ve attached a few screenshots showing the settings I chose and the measurement results I got so far (Curve B&K).

Would love to hear what you think – especially from those of you with more experience. Any suggestions for improving the setup or tweaking the results would be super helpful!

Thanks a lot in advance – looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Cheers, Joe

I do not know your speakers and room (which is the biggest factor) - but it looks good (in theory). How does it sound?

 

[Öggy]

It actually sounds pretty good. I’m just surprised how I was able to enjoy music before, especially when switching back and forth between filters or turning the filter on and off.


Now I’m wondering about the significant dips around 90–100 Hz and around 195 Hz. I know that dips aren’t as critical to human hearing as peaks, but still – it feels like something must be missing there. Or am I wrong?

 

[harkpabst]

It actually sounds pretty good. I’m just surprised how I was able to enjoy music before, especially when switching back and forth between filters or turning the filter on and off.


Now I’m wondering about the significant dips around 90–100 Hz and around 195 Hz. I know that dips aren’t as critical to human hearing as peaks, but still – it feels like something must be missing there. Or am I wrong?

I wouldn't be totally happy with these results, at least not looking at the curves. The question is if the graphs are telling the truth or if the measurement is flawed.

First, there's far too little bass output below 50 Hz. Then there is the dip around 90 Hz, indeed. The (very narrow) dip around 190 Hz might be unavoidable, I'd deal with that later, if at all.

This sub is no earth-shaking monster, but when wall mounted (as intended) its SPL shouldn't be down by almost 15 dB at 40 Hz. How did you set up your sub in the WiiM Home app and using it's own controls? Which procedure did you follow to set the delay and the level? Do you use the clean crossover between mains and sub at 80 Hz (default) or are you running your speakers full range? This dip around 90 Hz could well be due to wrong phase/delay settings.

Let's start with these questions first before trying to fix anything. As I said, some smartphones were found to apply unhelpful high pass filtering even to external microphones. WiiM did there best to disable any such features prior to performing the measurements, but following my own experiments there are still some irregularities with certain phone models. I cannot remember heaving read feedback explicitly referring to the A54, featuring Samsung's own Exynos 1380 SoC.

 

[Öggy]

I’ve tried to set up the subwoofer according to the tutorials and advice shared here in the forum. I ran the WiiM synchronization with the main speakers, set the crossover frequency on the subwoofer to its maximum setting, and adjusted the sub level to a comfortable starting point. This way, I can still make further level adjustments in the app – ideally staying within the positive range.

I wasn’t quite sure about the phase setting, so I went with the one that sounded a bit louder. You can see more details in the screenshot.
Thanks so far

 

[slartibartfast]

I’ve tried to set up the subwoofer according to the tutorials and advice shared here in the forum. I ran the WiiM synchronization with the main speakers, set the crossover frequency on the subwoofer to its maximum setting, and adjusted the sub level to a comfortable starting point. This way, I can still make further level adjustments in the app – ideally staying within the positive range.

I wasn’t quite sure about the phase setting, so I went with the one that sounded a bit louder. You can see more details in the screenshot.
Thanks so farView attachment 24940

What does the response look like if you disable the subwoofer in the WiiM Home app and repeat the room correction?

 

[Öggy]

Just done...

 

[slartibartfast]

Just done...

30-40Hz is actually higher level without the sub. Weird.

 

[MCG555]

It actually sounds pretty good. I’m just surprised how I was able to enjoy music before, especially when switching back and forth between filters or turning the filter on and off.


Now I’m wondering about the significant dips around 90–100 Hz and around 195 Hz. I know that dips aren’t as critical to human hearing as peaks, but still – it feels like something must be missing there. Or am I wrong?

Just try it! Fill the gaps with rhe usage of the PEQ at these positions (trial&error) - play with gain an Q - you‘ll see… there will be differences, but the ear will adapt as have seen before…