Room Correction... I like it!

+9,5db at 40Hz is huge increase in the power you speaker cone receives. You will blow your speakers unless you reduce 10 db the volume that is around 82% and still....
 
+9,5db at 40Hz is huge increase in the power you speaker cone receives. You will blow your speakers unless you reduce 10 db the volume that is around 82% and still....

yes that will require several times the power from your amp, increase distortion etc.

Should really come with pop up warning on the PEQ app perhaps once "danger will robinson!", most noobs will aim for +/- 1db not understanding 10 filters at +10db is a really bad idea.
 
Could it be that this is also the cause that I find it sounds better at high volume - ie that the WiiM Amps power with these EQ settings was just not enough for that volume and my speakers?

I just switched from WiiM Amp to a Purifi 1ET400A (2x425W) with WiiM Pro Plus and find that it sounds better at least at higher volume.
 
Be aware those boosts will suck out extra power from your amp. Every six dB means 2x the power is used.
…but should not be a problem in most cases! Especially as in this example the base is even de-loaded… It might be a problem in the base for Tube Amps or high listening levels…
 
…but should not be a problem in most cases! Especially as in this example the base is even de-loaded… It might be a problem in the base for Tube Amps or high listening levels…

Take for example a bookshelf speaker that starts rolling off -3db at 50hz and it is -10 db at 40hz. Why do you think this speaker rolls off at 50hz? The magnet , the diaphragm , the cone due to its diameter and materials cannot support at full power a higher output. They cannot simply move so much air at these long wavelengths. You will get distortion from the drivers and damage them and you will clip the amplifier.

You need subwoofers to support the B&K and Harman curve at the lowest octaves of the frequency band and not tricks with eq.
 
Take for example a bookshelf speaker that starts rolling off -3db at 50hz and it is -10 db at 40hz. Why do you think this speaker rolls off at 50hz? The magnet , the diaphragm , the cone due to its diameter and materials cannot support at full power a higher output. They cannot simply move so much air at these long wavelengths. You will get distortion from the drivers and damage them and you will clip the amplifier.

You need subwoofers to support the B&K and Harman curve at the lowest octaves of the frequency band and not tricks with eq.
Sure! Did I say anything different? Also with Subs RC is great! Especially with subs! As you can control the crossover frequency now much better!
 
3 dB is correct. 10 time the power for 10 dB SPL difference. However, +10 dB EQ at say 50 Hz has totally different requirements for actual power than e.g. +10 dB at 500 Hz. Most of the electrical power is used below 200 Hz anyway.

So yes, trying to extend a small speaker's frequency response by EQ (no matter if manually or by automatic RC) might not be a good idea for two reasons:
  1. It takes quite a bit of extra power from the amp. This will reduce the available headroom (but might not be a problem, depending on room size and desired maximum level).
  2. It might well overdrive smallish speakers. It's mainly a matter of (linear) displacement volume and thermal load capacity, no secrets here. Again, you can get away with it depending on room size, desired level and speaker efficiency).
All this is unrelated to the issue of digital clipping due to positive gain, which is a separate problem on its own.

The above is also the reason why adding a powered sub is such an efficient way to not only extend the frequency range, but also relieve the amplifier of heavy bass duties.
 
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The above is also the reason why adding a powered sub is such an efficient way to not only extend the frequency range, but also relieve the amplifier of heavy bass duties.

In my case, with the help of WiiM RC, I moved the Crossover frequency up to around 70Hz. Similarly I increased the manual gain on the Subs quite a bit, which resulted in a heavily corrected bass curve (with a narrow peak of -12db at 46Hz) after RC.
The outcome: A tigther cleaner but still deep bass and a freed up midrange and soundstage, as my ProAcs are reliefed quite a bit of the energy consuming low frequencies… I can recommend this approach!
 
In my case, with the help of WiiM RC, I moved the Crossover frequency up to around 70Hz. Similarly I increased the manual gain on the Subs quite a bit, which resulted in a heavily corrected bass curve (with a narrow peak of -12db at 46Hz) after RC.
The outcome: A tigther cleaner but still deep bass and a freed up midrange and soundstage, as my ProAcs are reliefed quite a bit of the energy consuming low frequencies… I can recommend this approach!
Someone I remember stated wiim doesn’t have the skills to do rc and focus something else. Well, wiim rc is one of the greatest feature since the slice of bread. It made my sound system better. Wiim rc is a secret sauce!
 
Is it possible to save 2 seat positions and change them quickly? When working, I'm sitting at my desk, in a completely different place in the room than when I watch movies or listen to music in the evening
 
Yes, my room is very difficult especially in terms of bass. Without EQ there is lack of bass. But RC solved that for me.
I, on the other hand, have too much bass around 50-60 hz and too little in the 80-100 range. I have a sub REL HT 1205 and I'm veeeeeeeeery curious about what Wiim Ultra will do for my 2.1 setup. Can't wait to buy it and test it!!!!
 
I, on the other hand, have too much bass around 50-60 hz and too little in the 80-100 range. I have a sub REL HT 1205 and I'm veeeeeeeeery curious about what Wiim Ultra will do for my 2.1 setup. Can't wait to buy it and test it!!!!

You‘ll be positively surprised!
 
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