Enhanced Room Correction is Here!

This shows Left Speaker & Sub, Right Speaker & Sub and Left, Right & Sub. Any thoughts on the cause of the dip at 164Hz with Left, Right & Sub when it isn't present in either the Left or Right responses?

View attachment 16035
The answer should be in the individual phase responses of the left and right channel. Try plotting those on top of each other and limit the display to say 100 - 300 Hz.

I don't see any other possible reason but the phase difference between the left and right sound pressure.
 
The answer should be in the individual phase responses of the left and right channel. Try plotting those on top of each other and limit the display to say 100 - 300 Hz.

I don't see any other possible reason but the phase difference between the left and right sound pressure.
If that is the reason what would you do about it?
 
If that is the reason what would you do about it?
I guess there's not much you can do except moving the speakers. At 160 Hz the speakers are completely omnidirectional, so the combined direct sound plus reflections would appear to be out of phase. There shouldn't be any issue with the direct sound, so I would try working on the reflections.
 
I guess there's not much you can do except moving the speakers. At 160 Hz the speakers are completely omnidirectional, so the combined direct sound plus reflections would appear to be out of phase. There shouldn't be any issue with the direct sound, so I would try working on the reflections.
This what Google AI says. It agrees with you.
"AI Overview



If you're experiencing a dip in your room's acoustics when using two speakers but not with just one, this is most likely due to a phenomenon called "speaker boundary interference" (SBI), where sound waves from each speaker interfere destructively with reflections bouncing off nearby walls, creating a noticeable dip in the frequency response at certain points in the room, especially when the speakers are positioned too close together.
Key points about SBI and why it might only appear with two speakers:
Interference pattern:
When sound waves from two speakers overlap, they can either reinforce each other (constructive interference) or cancel each other out (destructive interference) depending on the distance and phase relationship between the waves.
Room reflections:
When sound waves hit a wall, they bounce back, and if these reflections reach your ears at the same time as the direct sound from the speaker, it can cause interference.
Speaker placement:
If your speakers are positioned too close to walls or corners, the reflections can be particularly strong and create a noticeable dip in the frequency response at specific frequencies.
How to address the dip:
Adjust speaker positioning:
Move speakers away from walls: Try positioning your speakers further away from walls and corners to minimize reflections.
Experiment with speaker spacing: Adjust the distance between the speakers to find a sweet spot where the interference is minimized.
Speaker height: Ensure your speakers are at ear level for optimal sound dispersion.
Room acoustic treatment:
Acoustic panels: Install sound absorbing panels on walls and ceilings to reduce reflections and improve overall acoustics.
Bass traps: Use bass traps in corners to address low-frequency issues caused by room modes.
Measurement tools:
Room acoustic software: Use a room measurement software like REW (Room EQ Wizard) to identify the exact frequencies where the dip occurs and to fine-tune speaker placement."
 
This what Google AI says. It agrees with you.
Normally this would make me reconsider my statement. 😜 But not in this case.

A more sympathetical setup may possibly fix this dip (even if it requires moving one speaker closer to a wall) but could.also introduce further issues.

Go figure.
 
Normally this would make me reconsider my statement. 😜 But not in this case.

A more sympathetical setup may possibly fix this dip (even if it requires moving one speaker closer to a wall) but could.also introduce further issues.

Go figure.
Previously I have changed the distance of speakers to the front wall with no luck. Now I am starting to think it could be distance to the side wall which is the issue and harder to change.
 
Is there a way to use an external mic instead of my iPhone for using room correction for the Ultra? I have a miniDSP UMIK-1 mic that I've used when taking measurements for Dirac with my Emotiva XMC-1.
 
Is there a way to use an external mic instead of my iPhone for using room correction for the Ultra? I have a miniDSP UMIK-1 mic that I've used when taking measurements for Dirac with my Emotiva XMC-1.
Yes, just connect the external mic to your device running the WiiM Home App/performing the room correction. The app should automatically detect the attached microphone.

-Ed
 
Yes, just connect the external mic to your device running the WiiM Home App/performing the room correction. The app should automatically detect the attached microphone.

-Ed
Thank you! So I'd need to connect it to my iPhone 13? If so I'd have to get a compatible cable for the mic with a USB-C connection.
 
Thank you! So I'd need to connect it to my iPhone 13? If so I'd have to get a compatible cable for the mic with a USB-C connection.
Oh yes you'll need a USB-C to Lightning adapter if you want to use a standard USB-C cable, or you need an actual USB-C to lightning cable if you want to directly connect the two in that case. I have a USB-C port on my iPhone (16 Pro) and iPad.

-Ed
 
Is there a way to use an external mic instead of my iPhone for using room correction for the Ultra? I have a miniDSP UMIK-1 mic that I've used when taking measurements for Dirac with my Emotiva XMC-1.
You can add an external mic, but without being to add a microphone calibration file, the measurements probably won't be any more accurate to your system than an unobstructed iPhone mic. I already did the same thing with both an iPhone and a Umik-2.
So I used a Martin Logan Unison with Anthem room correction (genesis) to get accurate measurements, and then used those measurements to make my own PEQ settings.
It was time consuming to get it the PEQ settings near perfect, but it was worth it to me because it's my final stereo system and very expensive.
 
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So, I did the R & L RC to very good results and also the beta three tests in a row.

Then tonight, I noted earlier in this thread about the "Equalize Freq." in Room Correction.

First went down from 40 to 28Hz. Wow, that was really nice. Great improvement in the lower end.
Then dropped it all the way down to 20Hz.

Wow, absolutely superb and great improvement beyond any expectation. My speakers were rated down to 40K but there was recapping done and that was a big improvement too. Thanks so much WiiM, unreal.
 
So, I did the R & L RC to very good results and also the beta three tests in a row.

Then tonight, I noted earlier in this thread about the "Equalize Freq." in Room Correction.

First went down from 40 to 28Hz. Wow, that was really nice. Great improvement in the lower end.
Then dropped it all the way down to 20Hz.

Wow, absolutely superb and great improvement beyond any expectation. My speakers were rated down to 40K but there was recapping done and that was a big improvement too. Thanks so much WiiM, unreal.
It boost 20hz by large margin.
 
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