Test WIIM pro+ with different power supplies

@ Rudivanb:

Thank you for your offer.
At present, I do not have a plan when I might exchange the power cable.
And I might try as an alternative to the Supra an Eupen EMC/COM:
Greetings from Germany,
Alexander
 
@ homeduck:
I do use only one USB connection for the WIIM Pro Plus.
I am not sure about the possibility to use the two USB-out at once/in parallel mode.
As there is no user manual, I cannot look it up - but I suppose that as long as the max. of 2A is respected, it should be possible to connect two devices in parallel mode.
You might just drop a line at www.audiophonics.fr - they speak French and English.


@Rudivanb:
Thank you for sharing your experience you made with this LPSU.
At present I use a standard power cord, but I might look out for a shorter one, as 1.25 m is too long.
0.75 m would be enough, and for that I usually buy a DIY-power cord, this one I use for several small devices:


Greetings from Germany,
Alexander
I reached Audiophonics support and they answered 2A is the max current from outputs (so from both USB as total amount). So, device cannot power both Wiim Pro (1.5A) and a Dac (1A) simultaneously.
 
out of curiosity and knowing that it is a fairly "clean" charger, I use a 1A chromecast audio transformer over time with "plus"..does not really heat up, has not burned..
(but I observed a consumption of less than 0.6a so it is not so inconsistent)
 
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Those ratings are max ratings, likely never draw that much current so a 2.0 rated supply will likely work fine on the combined rating of 2.5 amps if your DAC is not also used as the gain control, fixed output, etc...BUT, it could mater, you can try it and see how it works out. Of course it might be better to have a higher rated supply or separate supplies. I would lean towards trying it out, not over heating, no noticeable signal degradation, I would just run it if I needed to save a the money, space, etc.

Search to see if you can find measured current readings on both products, actually that is the place to start before testing them.

Rick
 
Hifi should really be about what sounds nice to the system's owner. I have everything from old 70s amps to my wiim amp, I'm sure most of them measure terribly compared to $40,000 hifi stuff shown at the trade shows, however I like how they sound and isn't that what it's all about?
 
Hifi should really be about what sounds nice to the system's owner. I have everything from old 70s amps to my wiim amp, I'm sure most of them measure terribly compared to $40,000 hifi stuff shown at the trade shows, however I like how they sound and isn't that what it's all about?
Yeah. I’m sure we get used to the sound of our amps, speakers etc in our room setup and lots of us don’t like change even if we’re told it’s for the better…
 
I'm also really not convinced by the power supply argument , because the wiim pro plus works entirely in the realm of digital, it either makes a signal, or it doesn't. The only analog section is a 0.5-2v output at tiny low level. I would be concerned if changing the power supply had any effect at this level, as the signal hasn't even got to the pre-amp yet!

I can buy it making a difference with the wiim amp, as class D amps are well documented as having their power supply be a large factor in the output.
 
I'm also really not convinced by the power supply argument , because the wiim pro plus works entirely in the realm of digital, it either makes a signal, or it doesn't. The only analog section is a 0.5-2v output at tiny low level.
Signal on the digital coax output is very analog by its nature. And it's affected by the power supply to some degree.
 
Because impulse DC converters will likely be used to supply 5V DC via the USB output. I don't expect these circuits to be of high quality.
 
If anyone wants to get tweaky with power supplies, you might want to try using a battery first. I've been using a 10000maH cell phone battery and it easily lasts a whole day or more. Plus it's pure DC...no ripple or noise from a battery. And then there's cost.
 
If anyone wants to get tweaky with power supplies, you might want to try using a battery first. I've been using a 10000maH cell phone battery and it easily lasts a whole day or more. Plus it's pure DC...no ripple or noise from a battery. And then there's cost.
So one could also then use similar to this Deal of the day: Anker Prime Power Bank, 20,000mAh Portable Charger with 200W Output, Smart Digital Display, 2 USB-C and 1 USB-A Port Compatible with iPhone 15/14/13 Series, Samsung, MacBook, Dell, and More https://a.co/d/imPmYRV
To power the wiim.
 
Please note: Not all battery banks are just that as I understand from what I have read here many have SMPS or similar devices converting DC to DC and are quite noisy. I happen to have an Anker power bank as well as stock PS, iPhone PS and am using the Ifi ipower at the moment but have been tied up with our remodel project and building a new troublesome computer so not taken the time to do a decent listening test yet. At least do a search and or elsewhere to verify the power bank issue before buying one to try(not that expensive and might have other uses so not a loss if so) I used the one I have for my E30 DAC and it was better than the stock PS it came with.
 
Please note: Not all battery banks are just that as I understand from what I have read here many have SMPS or similar devices converting DC to DC and are quite noisy.
All battery banks are using dc-dc converters for efficiency.
Given their target (charging phones and other devices), it makes sense to use the cheapest approach and not caring at all about providing a clean output.
If you can find objective tests results for some battery banks, please share them.
 
All battery banks are using dc-dc converters for efficiency.
Given their target (charging phones and other devices), it makes sense to use the cheapest approach and not caring at all about providing a clean output.
If you can find objective tests results for some battery banks, please share them.
My experience with a power bank for WiiM PRO is that a good linear supply or good smps might be better sounding .
The picture is from my first comparison between three supplies - the iPad charger from 2012 sounded best , later the lt1084 based linear supply sounded slightly better , but it was a very small difference.
IMG_4359.jpeg


IMG_4513.jpeg
 
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The difference between the first wart and the linear one is big even over youtube, much more detail retrieval.
 
I'm going to assume that most any battery bank will use the cheapest way to make 5vdc from what is most likely a 12vdc battery pack...seeing as how there needs to be enough headroom to use a regulator. Using a couple cheap capacitors and a LM7805..or better a LM340A..regulator is a strong possibility. The LM7805 is a linear device so no issues there. And I do know how to spell "assume". If not, than this could easily be built and used to have pure DC. A decent sized LiFePO battery could power this easily as current draw can't be much. Perf board, caps, and LM340A reg total cost is less than $15....battery and charger another $100ish.
 
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